Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2024
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
The latest edition of New York Fashion Week is leaving quite interesting proposals, as far as analysis is concerned, and one of them has been presented by Helmut Lang, currently creatively directed by Peter Do.
Vietnamese designer based in the Big Apple conquered a large part of the fashion industry with his debut collection for Spring/Summer 2024. Sometimes it happens that the first line shown leaves everyone speechless, but not so much the following ones. In this particular case that didn’t happen, because if the first was good, the second one was even better. Mr. Do was what the company needed to rise from the ashes like a phoenix and recover the position and notoriety it enjoyed in the 90s.
Helmut Lang is New York in its purest form and Peter knows it, and the new (in full development) stands out for its minimalist aesthetic and avant-garde touches. It could also be said that the quiet luxury trend has a place here, as, apart from a few garments or accessories, logos are barely visible. The garments stand out for their modern silhouettes and the fabrics they are made of, which fit perfectly with the neutral color palette chosen, excluding orange and red.
Regarding the menswear part, the clothes proposed by the designer are inspired by the city and its ambition, the way people speak, which consequently determines how they live and dress, and the manner people protect themselves from what they don’t feel comfortable with. The feeling of discomfort is unpleasant and the important thing is to feel the opposite, trust and love. Once this is achieved, it will naturally be reflected in behavior. Perhaps when reading this a question arises, how to accomplish this? It’s easy, by wearing the hyper-adaptable Fall/Winter 2024 collection of clothes, shoes, and bags from Helmut Lang by Peter Do, ranging from tailoring with different silhouettes and fabrics, jackets with high collars that turn into hoods, jumpers with built-in balaclavas, pieces made of silk with bubble texture, and utilitarian clothing.
Peter Do has put Helmut Lang back where it belongs. Take a look at the Fall/Winter 2024 collection below:
PUMA returns to New York Fashion Week in style
Willy Chavarria FW24: The Polaroids
Satoshi Kuwata, Founder and Creative Director of Setchu, makes his Milan Fashion Week debut.
Fiorucci captures the wonder of a child playing in the street, where reality bends and imagination takes the lead.
Lucía Melús, a new designer from IED Barcelona, approaches fashion with quiet introspection.
Ann Demeulemeester’s Pre-Spring 2026 collection is about listening. The designer steps back, not to dwell on the past, but to let the house’s own history speak, then moves forward without force.
The collection emerges from two decades of collective memory.
The new XA PRO 3D collaboration between Salomon and Korean designer JEONG LI is a wearable meditation on time, nature, and human connection.
Pitti Uomo’s 108th edition focused on daring fashion experimentation and creative exploration, showcasing inventiveness characterized by eclecticism in addition to a forward-thinking outlook of all things sartorial.
Massimo Giorgetti’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection for MSGM captures the essence of cycling culture.
A$AP Rocky just redefined an icon. In collaboration with Ray-Ban, he’s transformed the classic Wayfarer into something entirely fresh, the Wayfarer Puffer.
Johannes Knop captured by the lens of Julian Freyberg, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Straightforward, adaptable pieces form the core of the collection, with MM6’s signature classics reworked in new ways.
PUMA is back in Paris with a new collaboration, this time with designer Salehe Bembury.
The Polimoda Graduate Show 2025 kicked off Pitti Uomo’s 108th edition, presenting twenty collections from emerging designers that prioritized raw creativity over commercial appeal.
Bershka is doubling down on its mission to spotlight rising artists with Bershka Music, a project that mixes fashion, music, and digital culture.
TOMMY HILFIGER New York, a premium collection launching in February 2026, takes Savile Row tradition and gives it a shot of energy.
The Parisian house started a new chapter with the opening of their new space, located at 10 rue de Picardie, Paris 3rd.
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Amid Impasto of Horizons, as the Guest of Honor at Pitti Immagine Uomo 108.
Niccolò Pasqualetti unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection during Pitti Uomo 108.
Pitti Uomo 108 in collaboration with Japan Fashion Week Organization takes us backstage at the first international runway show for Japanese brand Children of the Discordance.
On a sunny Paris day, we caught up with Damien for a little chat in a park, because talking poetry on a sunny day in Paris on a weekday feels more than right.
Francesco Risso steps down as creative director of fashion house Marni after a decade.
The latest Stüssy drop has arrived, bringing the same effortless cool the brand has built its name on.
Check out some of our favorite streetstyle looks spotted at Pitti Uomo 108.
Japanese designer Hideaki Shikama presented his Spring/Summer 2026 collection “Enfant Terrible” for Children of the discordance, at Pitti Uomo 108.
We talked with Ecstasya about her hiatus, the struggle of keeping Lisbon’s first queer hardcore night (Maythey) alive, and why the best tracks come from being “sad as fuck.”
Zalando just launched a five-piece capsule collection where workwear meets burger obsession.
Young talents have until July 17 to apply for a chance to present their work, receive industry support, and compete for career-changing prizes.
Jun Takahashi has imagined the season in the most bohemian, easy, and relaxed way possible.
Bikkembergs unveiled their latest collab for a new generation of fashion and street culture aficionados at Pitti Uomo 108 with designer Gosha Rubchinskiy reimagining the classic Soccer sneaker.
Patta and Nike reunite for “The New Wave,” a capsule collection centered on the Air Max 90, a silhouette deeply embedded in sneaker culture.
