GORI DE PALMA 1% COLLECTION AW/2011.12
by Edu Garcia Llamas
Last collection by Gori de Palma for fall-winter 2011-2012. Photography by Cristian Di Stefano.
“1%” es una propuesta del diseñador Gori de Palma, para su ultima colección AW11/ 12 que reflexiona sobre la importancia de los valores estéticos en los grupos disidentes. Pretende ser un estudio sociológico sobre dichas minorías, sobre esas manifestaciones del gusto que no tienen ninguna continuidad histórica, ya que no surgen de ningún estilo anterior ni tampoco se desarrollan a partir de el, ni tan siquiera forman parte de ningún proceso social regulador. La moda esta representada en nuestros tiempos por el proceso y la expresión del gusto colectivo. Pero la moda no solo se transmite a través de los grupos colectivos y la manipulación consumista, sino que son los grupos disidentes, los que efectivamente crean la moda, porque su mensaje se mantiene siempre en el contexto de la no adhesión.
La construcción e inspiración de este proyecto gira alrededor de la cultura “Rider”, surgida en 1947 a raíz de cierta alarma social por unos altercados provocados por motoristas en una concentración. La A.M.A ( American Motorcycle Asociation ) intento explicar que solamente el 1% de los motoristas que acudieron, provocaron los altercados. Ahí nació el mito del 1%, de las bandas fuera de la ley.
“1%” también es una reflexión sobre el choque entre dos mentalidades opuestas, la mentalidad conservadora y tradicional de una sociedad inmersa en la Guerra Fría, frente a la mentalidad insurrecta y contestataria de una generación de jóvenes que se niegan a formar parte de ese mundo aletargado y optan por un estilo de vida marginal y alternativo al de una sociedad a la que ven como su enemigo. Pero el 1% es mucho mas que eso, supone la pertenencia a una minoría, ensalza un especial sentido de diversión y libertad, de camaradería, de solidaridad y de insumisión. Representa un símbolo de libertad.
Un análisis exhaustivo del vestuario que forma la identidad de este sector marginal, desde la visión de las primeras bandas de motoristas surgidas en los 50’ como “Hells Angels”, y otras mas recientes en los 80’s , los denominados “The Mean Fuckers”. Un análisis antropológico, por su anocrismo y excentricidad, por su rareza y exotismo. Una colección donde predomina el negro, el cuero, el algodón impermeabilizado y repleto de simbología perteneciente a esa cultura.
TO WATCH: Video Gori de Palma 1% Collection
Credits:
Photography CRISTIAN DI STEFANO
Make·up & Hair YOSUAH BAREA
Models VICTORIA RIBOT @ UNO MODELS & YOHEI OKI
Video DANIEL FIDALGO & ANTIESTATICO
Thanks to CAFERACERDREAMS
Production SIMPLYPRORSUM
Strange Talk: Eskimo Boy
Lukas Grout by Hedi Slimane
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