The last Portugal Fashion edition had a total of 33 fashion shows. Between Lisboa and Oporto, 17 designers, eight young designers, 12 students from six fashion schools, five clothing labels and six footwear brands showed the next trends for the spring/summer 2018 season. Here you can find 5 proposals we liked the most.
JULIO TORCATO
How would you describe the mood of MOBIL(IZE)II?
MOBIL(IZE)II is a continuation of the last one which was MOBIL(IZE)I. A mix between a new minimal aesthetics and sport details with the tailoring DNA of the brand. It’s an urban, contemporary and easy-going collection with a lot of details, sometimes hidden.
Where does your inspiration come from for this collection?
The inspiration comes from the street attitude. It’s an evolution of the previous concepts presented on the last few collections inspired by the new technology in fashion regarding to movement, comfort and sports apparel but most of all the simplicity that comes with common people.
Tell us something about the fabrics and the colors you have used.
This is our first time using only two colors in the whole collection, navy and white. The fabrics are a mixture between technical sports high performance and sofisticated fine cottons and leather, also reenforcing the combination between sporty and tailored looks.
DAVID CATALÁN
How would you describe the mood of SURSUM CORDA?
Sursum Corda is a Latin versicle of the opening dialogue to the Preface of the Eucharistic Prayer and its meaning is “Lift up your hearts”.
Where does your inspiration come from for this collection?
We departed from American workwear, and started working our way around a employee which is traveling, then we got to the theme of tourism and gentrification. That’s where we got the name, we decided to do a really cheerful collection based on quite a divisive and harsh topic.
Tell us something about the fabrics and the colors you have used
The colors are very bright and fun, inspired in a Brazilian color scheme. The fabrics are quite light, good for a tropical summer.
ALEXANDRA MOURA
How would you describe the mood of WITHIN THE TIME WITHIN?
This collection´s mood is urban and irreverent but romantic at the same time.
Where does your inspiration come from for this collection?
The inspiration comes from the interiors of Portuguese palaces of the eighteenth century. Also the garments used in 18th century were really inspiring for the collection.
Tell us something about the fabrics and the colors you have used.
We have different shades of black, strong red, a jacquard pattern with floral motifs. We have also used synthetic leather and frosted wool. Damaged and frayed fabrics are also well used in the collection.
NYCOLE
How would you describe the mood of RAVING IRAN?
Raving Iran is a younger and comfortable collection with an ethnic side that mixes some sporty and classical garments.
Where does your inspiration come from for this collection?
This collection tells the story of the Iranian dj’s Blade & Beard who shared the dream of playing their music in Europe because of the Iran’s restrictions on the production of electronic music. The Iran’s culture and oppression is represented with a lot of boots laces inspired by military vests. The sporty pieces symbolize the European lifestyle and such a desired freedom.
Tell us something about the fabrics and the colors you have used.
Warm colors and paisley patterns are inspired by the Iranian culture, by the other hand technical fabrics like nylons and waterproof materials symbolize the European side of the collection. To represent both sides, I mixed ethnic and technical fabrics in the same garments like windbreakers with stripes of different materials, shirts with patchworks of nylons, etc
INÊS TORCATO
How would you describe the mood of SELF-PORTRAIT (MIRROR)?
This collection has a lot of dualities for me. It is a continuation of the work I’ve been developing for the last year, deconstructing classical pieces and so on but at the same time it has a lot of new things for me in fabrics and treatments. The concept is “Self-Portrait”, because I believe I put lot of me in every collection and analyze myself a lot, but it has a subtitle which is the Mirror this time.
Where does your inspiration come from for this collection?
My work is an ongoing analysis of myself and of the human behaviour, and this one is about the interactions we have with other people and the way those interactions reflect in ourselves and how we reflect in others. In practical ways that is represented in the collection on the print, on the mirrored pieces for both men and women which are not genderless but the same piece adapted for the different body types of the different genders.
Tell us something about the fabrics and the colors you have used.
I did prints for the first time – watercolor and were made by me-,also jersey knits, denim and terrycloth in some stronger pieces, but also kept the poplin and tailoring classical fabrics with pinstripes in grey and black. I believe that raw colour and raw finishes were the main focus together with white pieces which brought more light to the collection than usual.