Études Fall/Winter 2023
by Adriano Batista
The Études Fall/Winter 2023 collection recenters the narrative on the epicenter of city life. In Paris, the concept of ‘le centre ville’ is almost an abstract notion, yet in other metropoles, it is a vital expression of togetherness, a signifier of connectivity. As such, the modern city is layered with a hybrid visual language — one that begins with architecture and extends throughout the bustling landscape.
Manifesting in materiality, iconography and the bold proposition of an amplified silhouette, the season’s evolution of the Études vocabulary is fortified by a muted palette that grades through dusty rose and arctic blue to deep green, chocolate, mud, concrete, black and beige. Adopting the archetypes of the masculine wardrobe inextricably linked with city life, the collection is built on tonal harmonies; emboldened by hand and industrial processes from raw-edged tailoring to bleached and destroyed denim. Roller-printed felt wool, padded nylons and dark satins join winter sartorial fabrics in a layered discourse between notions of sportswear, uniform, and formality. Naive emblems of the street are revealed in hyperreal 3D and stitch embroidery, from padlocks and antique coins to playful memento mori. The Études bomber jacket finds new forms in parka and hooded shapes, and with new fabrics and finishes including stoned cotton canvas, optical nylon, leather and embroidered iconography. Ample fluid trousers are layered with hybrid mock-neck blazers, double-breasted suit jackets, and fuzzy textured knits.
Complementing the collection, a creative exchange with the Amsterdam-based Swiss artist Batia Suter unfolds. Suter’s practice centers on the reinterpretation and contextualisation of found imagery through installation, collage and print publishing. Returning to imagery from her seminal books Parallel Encyclopedia #1 (2004-07) and Parallel Encyclopedia #2 (2016), Suter intervenes directly upon a suite of garments. Her graphic assemblages appear as a palimpsest of time and place: printing, embroidery and appliqué patches that investigate the phenomenon of cities throughout the ages.
Take a look at the collection below:
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