Edmund Ooi Fall/Winter 2015
by Luca Imbimbo
For Fall/Winter 2015, menswear designer Edmund Ooi’s research initially centered on digitalizing historical costume elements from the late 18th and 19th century, which lead him to his instinctive love for geometrical cuts and extremely controlled tailoring. Unsatisfied by exploring something he had done before, he began all over again by de- and reconstructing his collection by shredding the finished pieces seam by seam. As every fabric reacts differently to his method, this process resulted in a tremendous amount of research. Eventually, chaos turned into meticulous structure again but also lead to an evolution of the brand’s aesthetic, giving the collection a rugged edge.
Geometrical cuts and well-thought out patterns in combination with experimental yet high quality materials is a leitmotif which makes the brand stands out. This season features pinstripes motives – made out of shredded fabric edges, which are patched on the garment – and mixed-media suits containing triacetate, wool and molded rubber. The lineup’s standouts include a wool coat that was hand-shredded seam by seam, high-end jacquard knits, eye-catching pieces decorated with rubber sequins, as well as knitted collar scarves. The designer tries to step away from the boundaries of menswear while keeping it wearable by using his background in tailoring and patternmaking. With the current collection, he wanted to break the classic menswear silhouette by adding dresses and pairing them with materials such as faux fur, techno-silk, cashmere, faux leather and sequins heat-bonded on neoprene. The show is accompanied by uniquely made track by cult sound designer Senjan Jansen and features vocals by Antwerp band Soldier’s Heart.
Andrea Pompilio Fall/Winter 2015
Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2015
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