Diesel Black Gold Fall/Winter 2015
by Adriano Batista
For Diesel Black Gold’s Fall/Winter 2015 collection, creative director Andreas Melbostad conjured up a singular look inspired by the different, contrasting forces behind the multifarious British tradition.
References to England’s impeccable tailoring heritage are combined with the subversive, irreverent influences of the country’s iconic youth subcultures.
Giving cohesiveness to the collection, disparate elements are blended together and unified by an intense research on materials and techniques.
Textures are at the core of the lineup. The brand’s iconic denim pieces are washed, coated, distressed, patched to obtain the same rich hands of traditional tailoring fabrics, such as tweeds, checks, tartans, houndstooth and Prince of Wales. These are worked for signature outerwear pieces, such as a Donegal tweed trench with denim details and industrial zippers.
Tartan wool pants with applied pockets and zips are over dyed to get a darker, faded effect. Their punkish attitude contrasts with the sartorial sensibility of a coat and a blazer layered over a utilitarian nylon zippered vest and a crispy checked shirt.
Military references run through the collection injecting a sense of strong, assertive masculinity into wool jackets and coats, embellished with patches, chains, safety pins for a customized look.
Traditional British school uniforms are re-interpreted through the collections’ signature irreverent lens. A rebellious attitude informs striped blazers and rugby sweatshirts, adding graphic tones to the palette of black, blue, indigo, charcoal, sage, military green and red.
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