CoSTUME NATIONAL Homme Fall/Winter 2016
by Yari Fiocca
From being a fashion incompetent person to turning into a trendoid, it’s a short step- in other words Dalai Lama can easily turn into Bryan Boy!-. We live in a world where even an unstylish pipsqueak might become ‘the belle of the ball’ with the ‘perfect’ styling that- often- is the wrong one. The word moderation is a typo of fashion- be careful generalizing, you may say- or, pardon me, it’s been like this since being overexeedingly dressed is the last thing.
In the case of Ennio Capasa, you can’t convert a soul so deeply entrenched in the 90’s minimalism- but, most importantly, you can’t convert a man who cut his teeth assisting Yamamoto-. However, minimalism has its wild side, too. With a limited palette- imagine Mark Rothko’s N.61 rust and blue and Ellsworth Kelly’s Blue, Green, Red which are both part of Costume’s AW16 colour scheme- Capasa builds a collection so sophisticated that really packs a punch! Rock is linchpin of Costume National: urban warriors walk down with skinny trousers, squared shoulder jackets, shiny velvet blouses and waistcoats worn on bare skin- damn, that really rocks!-.
This time to experiment is important to assert the centrality of fashion- declared Capasa- but, if those glitter prints on velvet, fil coupè on nylon and three-dimensional embroideries have to do with Ennio’s experimental procedure, I admit that all this experimentation has brought about sensational results. The man behind Costume National is a ‘beautiful mind’ who’s often unfairly unappreciated but, please, let me be brutally honest: Ennio Capasa’s pure aesthetic is so significant that it is more than capable of kicking our trendy asses without missing a beat.
Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2016
Les Hommes FW16 Backstage!
The designer took his team and all his guests to the city of Arles, located in the south of France.
All the guests and friends of Zalando moved to the chosen location, which fitted perfectly with the theme of the event, to enjoy the good weather accompanied by an aperitif; and of course, something that can’t be missing at a party, music.
“Maricón” speaks of protest, acceptance, naturalness and love. It is a call to action for the new generations. Because equality never goes out of style
Take a look at Casablanca Spring/Summer 2023 backstage, captured by the lens of Marc Medina during Paris Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
This season, Archie Alled-Martinez wants to reclaim the term “metrosexual” -that hides a homophobic tone- and reinterprets its iconic silhouette from the early naughties, “camping” it up, eradicating any hint of fragile masculinity and making it 2022.
Take a look at TAAKK Spring/Summer 2023 backstage, captured by the lens of Sebastian Pielles during Paris Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
FUMITO GANRYU unveiled the lookbook for its Spring/Summer 2023 collection.
DAVIDCATALAN‘s SS23 collection is inspired by the late ’60s/early ’70s dance scene from the New York suburbs, Harlem and Brooklyn.
Set at the Palais de Tokyo, Fucking Young, TRANOÏ, and friends were able to toast to past success and drink to a great future with sets by Faire Music and the incredible Urumi.
Kenzo SS23 is an extension and refinement of the universe established in last season’s first collection, inspired by the attitude of Kenzo Takada, who has developed his ideas from season to season.
The collection was fully embodied from oversized sequence tops, camouflage coat, to low-slung jeans. Palm prints made an appearance making up some California nostalgia and Western references furth afield.
The French capital has once again been chosen to unveil the Spring/Summer 23 collection called “Futuro Optimisto”.
This season, Joey Gollish explores the history and lasting global impact of European cabaret, particularly Le Chat Noir, Cabaret Voltaire, and other central figures in European Cabaret.
Take a look at Gunther Spring/Summer 2023 backstage, captured by the lens of Sebastian Pielles, during Paris Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Designer Chitose Abe plays with a new take on her signatures and the notion of splicing authentic forms to create something unusual, authentic and original, Sacai-style, by applying a sense of informality to silhouettes and materials that are born of tradition.
The “simplicity can be deceitful” concept is portrayed throughout the collection.
Inspired by the androgynous beauty and seductive allure of American actor Joe Dallessandro, Valette Studio’s new collection is an ode to sartorial freedom and emancipation, underlining playfulness and personality as opposed to stereotypes, rules and uniformity.
Intertwining color and texture with lace, feathers and intricate orange prints, the collection offers “adaptions of feminine features into the ‘male’ silhouette.”
Craig Green’s men have identified a distant new summit to ascend, obscured far from view, but somehow ever present.
One of Jonathan Anderson’s strongest skills that he deserves credit for is being a great observer. He observes, then digests, then filters out what he has taken in. While conversations are being had around nature and technology, »
For the SS23 studio collection, Henrik Vibskov investigates the elements of bridges – a construction born from the hands of humans, allowing the feet to touch where only birds used to inhabit.
SANKUANZ SS23 continues the speculative exploration of life and death from its last season, realizing deep integration of street style and high fashion in multiple ways.
