Chicago-born Jay Escobara moved to New York City with his family at age 10, a shift that sharpened his observational skills and ignited his creative instincts. While his parents dreamed of him becoming a neurosurgeon, Jay had other ideas—sewing, drawing, and soaking up downtown culture. Since joining Champion in 2021, Jay has made sure you can find Champion gear at high-end retailers like Dover Street Market. He’s also masterminded collaborations with big names like Rick Owens, Palace, Supreme, Dreamville, Oyster Holdings, WTAPS, Awake, Danielle Guizio, KITH, and Todd Snyder.

We caught up with Jay in Paris during Men’s Fashion Week, where he shared insights about Champion’s takeover of the French capital. The brand teamed up with Highsnobiety, Boiler Room, Grailed, and Alaska Alaska for a series of exciting events.

Jay, what’s the story behind CIA (Champion Index+Archives)? How did it all start?

CIA is a case study on Champion’s vaulted archives (dating back until late 1920’s to current) and my love for Vintage Americana. Through this, I can articulate on the brands rich history through sport, campus, collegiate, and lifestyle. For decades, I’ve been personally collecting vintage objects, American textiles, surplus garments, blankets, rugs, trimmings, notions, etc to shape this narrative of gentle athletics. It’s been a goal of mine since starting at Champion in 22’ to express the essence of this brand’s heritage in a contemporary perspective. A few seasons in and all the pieces are starting to form- it’s idyllic in presence that harkens to what is essentially and globally recognized as American lifestyle born from sport.

The FW24 collection is dropping this August—what can you tell us about the pieces made in Japan & USA, and the themes like BDU, Modern Collegiate, and Marrakesh?

Yess! I can’t wait for it to drop because the creative feeling since day 1 has been electric! This whole assortment has been created by leveraging conversations with friends and partnering with creative peers to bring the assortment in full view. The base of the CIA assortment is produced in the USA- leveraging the original 90’s construction of Champion 12.5 oz Reverse weave and at the same time introducing Champion’s other icons such as our 1938 (1st Patent) Crewneck warm-up and the Rabart – which are produced in Japan using vintage loop knitting machines to replicate the original archive stitch for stitch.

“We really obsess over the details down to the original labels, marks, and construction. Everything is produced to be right and functional. It’s the opposite of modern garment production.”

 

B.D.U. Originally dubbed Battle Dress Uniform by America’s military academies, which NGL, it delivers more Boho than battle. This assortment explores Champion’s historical moment’s manufacturing for military academies (West Point, Wentworth) and national military services (USAFA, US ARMY) in the States dating back to the 1940s. We replicated this one hoodie based on the 43’ after-hood originally made for US Air Force trainees. It’s bananas! I can tell you more about the other capsules but seeing these garments do more justice than my words!

At its genesis, all I’m presenting with Modern Collegiate are depictions of 1940s and 1950s American campus wear beloved by foundational institutions of higher learning and the academic set that adorned the mix of prep’ and gentle athletics. The perfect Sun faded-university crew and gently lived-in wovens depict the original characteristics of our vaulted archive with a considered touch of hand and craftsmanship from the original gold standard, Champion.

Paris Fashion Week was huge for Champion! What makes the events you held with Champion so special and true to the brand?

Champion has always been about the community of creatives, the sportsman, and the academic. So it’s only natural that we continue our support of creativity through art, music, and sports- which we did during PFW. Our culture is celebrating the people’s culture – 100%!

The showroom looked incredible. How does it capture Champion’s vibe and culture?

Thank you! I love the showroom setup – mainly because it reminds me of home! When building the concept for the space I wanted to introduce CIA leveraging derivatives from my take on lifestyle – Like Champion, it needs to be timeless, real, and relatable. In a way, the showroom was designed to feel very personal, intentional, and dialed in – where everything has a purpose and every garment tells a story.

On the flipside, it’s a warm and receptive space – so when you enter the showroom you feel more eager to discover and live in these moments/depictions that are rigged and hanging but also connect the story as how everything works together and the narrative on what’s being said. Without question, you’re left with an appreciation of the brand reflecting upon 100 years of its heritage.

You’ve got a collab with Angelo coming in September through Awake powered by Champion. What’s the scoop on that partnership?

Angelo is fam! The connection with Angelo came through my brother Sherm’ who brought us together back in 2022 when he was working on Social Studies – which was a digitally driven, multi-day experience that united artists and brands around community-driven programs. From that point on, he fired back with The Angelo Baque collection where he tapped into Andean/Peruvian heritage and blended elevated tailored sportswear stylings. It’s the type of fresh sh*t you want to see from Champion visioned by Angelo! Angelo is a creative with purpose and Champion loves being at the genesis point with creatives that have something to say.

The Boiler Room x Grailed x Champion pop-up really connected rave culture with fashion. What was the inspiration behind this collaboration?

Ravers love Champion. The hoodie is such an iconic garment that’s essential to the whole vibe. So the connection is quite simple and natural to understand our cultural role with club kids and ravers. That’s just what people were into back then and now kids are taking it up another level blending styles and shapes within the culture.

Today, there are no real genres. That’s antiquated. The flex is understanding how styles can be abstracted and blended to be realized as something dope!

How has your journey in design and the industry shaped your creative approach at Champion?

I’m always learning. What I recently learned about myself is that today I would say, “I’m always learning from others” When watching other people I work with, and being around other creative peers, I’m learning from them. Perspectives are individual lessons or flexes around an idea. And I’m here for all the ideas – ha! I reflect a lot on the people who taught me real gems. I learned a lot at Polo-Ralph built incredible stories through fashion.

I learned a lot from those gents because it taught me to not compromise on the idea, the dream, and the pursuit of articulating the feeling or concept to a true reality. What Mr. Lauren built only encouraged me to be in pursuit to only depicting the stories, concepts, ideas, and designs that need to be told. Champion is such a great platform to do that and with such a deep/rich legacy, it only made me compelled to show up for this brand and tell the story of Champion the right way- with legacy, creativity, and courage.

Champion has such a rich history. How do you keep that legacy alive while staying fresh and relevant for today’s crowd?

The legacy stays alive only by keeping the brand narrative current and aspirational. I must be willing to try new things and experiment with new ideas and not be afraid to push limits. I love working with new creatives all the time. I have a select set I jam with a lot in LA and in NY but I also work around the world with people who think differently than me and offer different solutions.

That’s what brought Tawanda (ALASKA—ALASKA) and me together. ALASKA—ALASKA and I brought the concept for the Gymnasium Gallery to Paris after creatively speculating about it for 5-6 months. We wanted to look at Champion through the lens of Louise Bourgeois while acknowledging the purpose the brand plays in fashion.

Another take on our evolving legacy is our partnership with Jun Takahashi of Undercover™. Jun is an incredible mind- his visceral connection to culture and perspective serves as an inspiration point that has no bounds. When we get to blend the heritage of Champion and Undercover’s ascetic design process- you eventually see and realize a new dream, a new concept, and a fresh execution- dedicated to the future of craft and spirit!

What’s your advice for young designers who want to make their mark in the fashion world, especially in streetwear?

Everything is possible. Don’t be afraid to dream and live in the realm of concept. You have to trust yourself with your ideas and be comfortable with them. You owe it to yourself to pursue all ideas and dreams to reality and not just to make your mark but because you believe in it!

At the same time, learn patience. Taking time to evolve your ideas doesn’t take away from their value. And then lastly – create with purpose.

Photography: Adrien Nozouf