Rooted in the classics, but executed with eclecticism in mind, Carhartt WIP’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection traverses arid expanses and volcanic trails; harbor-side prep staples, and the brand’s archive. The result is subtle and cohesive, but upon closer inspection, rich in detail, whether through graphics, fabrics, or color schemes.

As always, the line is based on basics, made from hardwearing fabrics such as Dearborn Canvas, denim, and twill. Countered by contrasting triple stitch detailing, items such as the Michigan Chore coat in indigo denim take inspiration from the clean lines and loose, simple silhouettes of Carhartt WIP archive images, as well as elements of mid-90s New York City and the imposing double denim hip hop ensembles of the same era. Meanwhile, a burst of vibrant blue gives other iconic styles, like the Detroit jacket, a fresh feel.

More likely to be found traversing dusty planes on quads than on horseback, the new west serves as inspiration for a range of graphic prints and lightweight summer shirts. These appear alongside more substantial items like the Darper jacket, a modern take on a classic ranch coat, with a lightweight cotton poplin fabric and corduroy collar that nods to archetypal Carhartt WIP garments.

A port-side expression of Ivy League styles gives the collection an expansive feel, as it continues to look for different areas to explore. This results in a combination of functional water-resistant outerwear, baggy trousers in airy fabrics capable of billowing like the sails of a ship, and a series of motifs inspired by maritime flags, applied to T-shirts, shirts, and knitwear.

The offer is completed with understated, functional items that take their misty color palette from lumen’s floral prints. These include silhouettes that subtly reference outerwear, but are executed in soft cotton fabrics.

Check out the collection below: