Bianca Saunders Spring/Summer 2025
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
Milan Fashion Week is followed by Paris Fashion Week and although it is still in the midst of it, many brands have already had the opportunity to show their proposals. There are still plenty more to come, but from what has already been seen, it could be said that in the Spring/Summer 2025 seasons of the brands and designers that make up the French calendar, there has been a distinct absence of colour, except Bianca Saunders, a London-born and based designer who launched her fashion company in 2017 after graduating from The Royal College of Art ‘Masters of Arts’ in Menswear.
The grey days that dominate the French capital were finally brightened by the vitality that Saunders offered with her new work, called “The Hotel”, an exploration of creating and rediscovering characters; characters that were drawn from acclaimed photojournalist Bradley Smith’s photographs of a Jamaican resort in the 1940s and his book “Escape to the West Indies: A Guidebook to the Islands of the Caribbean”.
Such characters were represented on the narrow catwalk by models wearing the line’s creations, in which special importance was given to the subverted tailoring of butlers, chauffeurs, and fishermen. An example of this is a wool and cotton jacket with a shawl lapel and slanted buttonhole pockets, accompanied by a cotton twill buttoned shirt with concealed placket and plastic cornucopia spandex on the back; another wool-blend jacket with four-button closure featuring a shrugged shoulder at the back and two back gussets following the back panels combined with wool-blend trousers with a classic twisted crotch; and asymmetric sleeveless blouses and shirts with wraparound scarves and a handkerchief placed at the back that reveals the designer’s draping work.
Prints also received their fair share of attention – introduced as a nod to the artificial airs of a resort – especially the debut print of amorphous waves reflecting the contours of the male body. This could be seen on a slim-fit cotton shirt with an oversized collar and leggings. Another debut was the printed ties that complemented some of the looks.
In tandem with the release of “The Hotel,” Saunders unveils her first full footwear collection in collaboration with the Portuguese Association of Footwear and Leather Goods and manufactured by Valuni. The six-style collection, ranging from leather mid-length boots to square-toed knit slip-ons, is an intentional step to further actualise the Bianca Saunders world.
With this release, Bianca Saunders has pushed the possibilities of menswear as far as possible and delivered high doses of brilliant craftsmanship.
Have a look at the collection below:
The Bloody Kaleidoscope of Unax Lafuente
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