AMI Fall/Winter 2025
by Philippe Pourhashemi
Like a fine French wine, which tends to get better over the years, Alexandre Mattiussi’s vision for AMI is becoming sharper and more precise, focusing on beautifully crafted statement pieces, which will easily stand the test of time.
If the collection the French designer showed tonight felt sleeker and cleaner than usual, it also had a mellow and softer feel, which made it hard to resist. Mattiussi does great tailoring for men, but there’s a nonchalance and ease to his jackets and coats, which make them rather modern and relevant. He also used fraying on several pieces, as if he wanted to give his clothes a new and unfinished energy.
Feel-good fabrics, such as wool, suede, cashmere and shearling, emphasized a longing for garments that become more tactile and pleasurable. The color palette was subdued and soulful, including striking shades of brown, cream, winter whites, dusty pink and several variations on classic camel. Strangely enough, the collection seemed to recall the work of Martin Margiela at Hermès, elevating simplicity and purity to wonderful heights.
It made sense that Mattiussi cast iconic models to present his clothes, underlining their character and unique personality. Seeing Lara Stone, Leon Dame, Liya Kebede and many others all together in this show was an amazing treat. And with its sense of serenity, the collection brought calm to a world that truly needs it.
Check out the collection below:
Ann Demeulemeester Pre-Fall 2025 Collection
3.PARADIS Fall/Winter 2025
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