A Radical act of Restraint: LOEWE Spring/Summer 2025
by Anna Barr
The Loewe Spring/Summer 2025 collection ‘A Radical Act of Restraint’ was staged around a sparse group of objects designed by some of the twentieth century’s greatest artistic voices. The seemingly disparate assembly is an experiment in curatorial subjectivity and narrative association. It echoes Susan Sontag’s desire for a ‘erotics of art’ that prioritizes sensory pleasure over understanding. Peter Hujar, Charles Rennie Mackintosh, Carlo Scarpa, and Paul Thek are linked by their unwavering commitment to artistic freedom.
“I wanted to bring together something very personal to me; several artists and architects that are very singular voices in their field.” Jonathan Anderson stated on Instagram.
Models walked out with artful headpieces of long feathers that traced a line in the middle of the face that obscured the face from the audience. Creative Director Jonathan Anderson reinforced innovative silhouettes while favorite pieces like the Puzzle bag and Pebble soft hobo bag were given a fresh new look. Knitted harem-esque trousers and metal-woven tank tops serve as a form of armor for a variety of events. On the more casual side were luxury interpretations of the typical slogan tee.
LOEWE does set many of the trends, and we see the double belt wraps and overly long dangling belts as one of them. In the past, Anderson has drawn references to skaters, and you can see small remnants of that in the smallest of pieces like the belt, and using it almost as a sculpture. The notion of sculpture as a kind of fashion was more subtly represented, with a leather poncho embellished with silver zips, a long camel trench flared at the hem to reveal a contrasting lining, and blazers with large, wrinkled sleeves. This idea of loose, superfluous fabric was prominent throughout the collection, as evidenced by the aforementioned belts and a plethora of outerwear, including fitted jackets that appeared to be rippling with movement. Like Peter Hujar capturing a single high-heeled shoe or Charles Rennie Mackintosh’s The Half Moon Chair and the Hat, Coat and Umbrella Stand, when LOEWE makes a polo, it’s no longer just a polo.
Check it out below:
NAMESAKE Spring/Summer 2025
White Mountaineering Spring/Summer 2025
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