For Fall/Winter 2025-26, Dior under the creative direction of Mr.Kim Jones invited us into a sparse setting, simple and elegant made up of tiled concrete floors and white walls, a world away from the L’École Militaire just outside built under Louis XV by the architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel. Models strolled down a lit stairway, where front-rowers like Dior’s ambassador Quim Gutiérrez, Robert Pattinson, DJ Snake, among others, could get an almost aerial view of the collection before the clothes disappeared beneath the runway. The immediate advantage of the minimalist backdrop was that everyone’s attention was fixed on the clothing.
Kim Jones paid homage to Christian Dior’s Fall/Winter 1954 collection, H Line, which sought to give the appearance of a longer form, and served as the model for this season. Invoking that couture collection right away, Jones used sculptural shapes and exaggerated dimensions. Furthermore, this season abandoned any casualness in favor of discreet bows, blouses, and exposed collarbones while the palette was far more subdued and stark in terms of color alone compared to previous seasons, with the exception of a striking splash of baby pink and a few brown pieces.
Cream cardigans and tailcoats were designed to draw attention to the waist, and black suit pants were available in both tight and roomy styles. Key takeaways included monochrome and minimalism, but they were merely preparing the audience for the finale, which was the show-stopper: a knee-length baby pink kimono adorned with elaborate floral diamond patterning was fastened at the waist with a gigantic bow, of course. Looks like for fall, boys do bows better!
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