Helmut Lang Fall/Winter 2024
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
The latest edition of New York Fashion Week is leaving quite interesting proposals, as far as analysis is concerned, and one of them has been presented by Helmut Lang, currently creatively directed by Peter Do.
Vietnamese designer based in the Big Apple conquered a large part of the fashion industry with his debut collection for Spring/Summer 2024. Sometimes it happens that the first line shown leaves everyone speechless, but not so much the following ones. In this particular case that didn’t happen, because if the first was good, the second one was even better. Mr. Do was what the company needed to rise from the ashes like a phoenix and recover the position and notoriety it enjoyed in the 90s.
Helmut Lang is New York in its purest form and Peter knows it, and the new (in full development) stands out for its minimalist aesthetic and avant-garde touches. It could also be said that the quiet luxury trend has a place here, as, apart from a few garments or accessories, logos are barely visible. The garments stand out for their modern silhouettes and the fabrics they are made of, which fit perfectly with the neutral color palette chosen, excluding orange and red.
Regarding the menswear part, the clothes proposed by the designer are inspired by the city and its ambition, the way people speak, which consequently determines how they live and dress, and the manner people protect themselves from what they don’t feel comfortable with. The feeling of discomfort is unpleasant and the important thing is to feel the opposite, trust and love. Once this is achieved, it will naturally be reflected in behavior. Perhaps when reading this a question arises, how to accomplish this? It’s easy, by wearing the hyper-adaptable Fall/Winter 2024 collection of clothes, shoes, and bags from Helmut Lang by Peter Do, ranging from tailoring with different silhouettes and fabrics, jackets with high collars that turn into hoods, jumpers with built-in balaclavas, pieces made of silk with bubble texture, and utilitarian clothing.
Peter Do has put Helmut Lang back where it belongs. Take a look at the Fall/Winter 2024 collection below:
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