GCDS Fall/Winter 2023
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
GCDS moves from Rotonda della Bessana to Palazzo del Ghiaccio. New location, new registration. Is this the philosophy that Giuliano Calza (creative director of the brand) has implemented when designing the Fall/Winter 23 collection? We’re not sure, but what can be said with certainty is that this is the designer’s best proposal to date.
Everyone has a couple of dates in their memory that they never forget, no matter what. Calza is not an alien, although he likes them very much, and he has a couple of key days engraved in his head, such as his fashion shows, as they are very special and crucial moments for him. These coincide with the key point where both facets, the public and the private, merge and appear. It is here that he opens the closed door and decides to release his true self, relaxing and cheering up. The public facet could be related to the moment when the designer comes out to greet the guests at the show, once the line has been presented, while the private one corresponds to the moments before the show in which all kinds of feelings are experienced.
This season, Giuliano is narrowing the gap between his public image and who he is. Literally, at home, where the cat Kittho reigns supreme, who presides over the catwalk, enlarged to gigantic proportions, thanks to the art of the masters of Carnevale di Viareggio, Fratelli Cinquini Scenografie (another celebration of Made in Italy craftsmanship and skill), and covered in newspaper clippings, because in case you didn’t know, the Italian feeds his creativity, partly, with the news. There’s nothing G.C. loves more than being with Kittho, but above all, there’s nothing he loves more than making fashion: real clothes, meant to be worn, not gimmicks meant to trigger a viral but virtual response. This collection is a fusion of those urges, condensed into a pure act of fashion creation.
As inspiration for the current vision offered by the creative is the house, through which he explores the obsessions and inclinations that make him creatively thick. Such behaviours are reflected in the very bourgeois tweeds of the jackets, the diplomatic stripes on which the gentlemen depend, the worn furs of the rebellious offspring, the velvets of the sofas, and the fluffy textures of the bath mats. In this house, as you can see, there is room for everyone and for every material. They don’t say no to anything, but there is one requirement: to be cool and to have the “Giuli” touch, as many of his friends know him. And yes, Giuli has once again managed to achieve what he wanted, to confront the sweet and the seductive and come out on top.
See the collection below:
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