GORI DE PALMA 1% COLLECTION AW/2011.12
by Eduardo G.
Last collection by Gori de Palma for fall-winter 2011-2012. Photography by Cristian Di Stefano.
“1%” es una propuesta del diseñador Gori de Palma, para su ultima colección AW11/ 12 que reflexiona sobre la importancia de los valores estéticos en los grupos disidentes. Pretende ser un estudio sociológico sobre dichas minorías, sobre esas manifestaciones del gusto que no tienen ninguna continuidad histórica, ya que no surgen de ningún estilo anterior ni tampoco se desarrollan a partir de el, ni tan siquiera forman parte de ningún proceso social regulador. La moda esta representada en nuestros tiempos por el proceso y la expresión del gusto colectivo. Pero la moda no solo se transmite a través de los grupos colectivos y la manipulación consumista, sino que son los grupos disidentes, los que efectivamente crean la moda, porque su mensaje se mantiene siempre en el contexto de la no adhesión.
La construcción e inspiración de este proyecto gira alrededor de la cultura “Rider”, surgida en 1947 a raíz de cierta alarma social por unos altercados provocados por motoristas en una concentración. La A.M.A ( American Motorcycle Asociation ) intento explicar que solamente el 1% de los motoristas que acudieron, provocaron los altercados. Ahí nació el mito del 1%, de las bandas fuera de la ley.
“1%” también es una reflexión sobre el choque entre dos mentalidades opuestas, la mentalidad conservadora y tradicional de una sociedad inmersa en la Guerra Fría, frente a la mentalidad insurrecta y contestataria de una generación de jóvenes que se niegan a formar parte de ese mundo aletargado y optan por un estilo de vida marginal y alternativo al de una sociedad a la que ven como su enemigo. Pero el 1% es mucho mas que eso, supone la pertenencia a una minoría, ensalza un especial sentido de diversión y libertad, de camaradería, de solidaridad y de insumisión. Representa un símbolo de libertad.
Un análisis exhaustivo del vestuario que forma la identidad de este sector marginal, desde la visión de las primeras bandas de motoristas surgidas en los 50’ como “Hells Angels”, y otras mas recientes en los 80’s , los denominados “The Mean Fuckers”. Un análisis antropológico, por su anocrismo y excentricidad, por su rareza y exotismo. Una colección donde predomina el negro, el cuero, el algodón impermeabilizado y repleto de simbología perteneciente a esa cultura.
TO WATCH: Video Gori de Palma 1% Collection
Credits:
Photography CRISTIAN DI STEFANO
Make·up & Hair YOSUAH BAREA
Models VICTORIA RIBOT @ UNO MODELS & YOHEI OKI
Video DANIEL FIDALGO & ANTIESTATICO
Thanks to CAFERACERDREAMS
Production SIMPLYPRORSUM
Strange Talk: Eskimo Boy
Lukas Grout by Hedi Slimane
Satoshi Kuwata, Founder and Creative Director of Setchu, makes his Milan Fashion Week debut.
Fiorucci captures the wonder of a child playing in the street, where reality bends and imagination takes the lead.
Lucía Melús, a new designer from IED Barcelona, approaches fashion with quiet introspection.
Ann Demeulemeester’s Pre-Spring 2026 collection is about listening. The designer steps back, not to dwell on the past, but to let the house’s own history speak, then moves forward without force.
The collection emerges from two decades of collective memory.
The new XA PRO 3D collaboration between Salomon and Korean designer JEONG LI is a wearable meditation on time, nature, and human connection.
Pitti Uomo’s 108th edition focused on daring fashion experimentation and creative exploration, showcasing inventiveness characterized by eclecticism in addition to a forward-thinking outlook of all things sartorial.
Massimo Giorgetti’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection for MSGM captures the essence of cycling culture.
A$AP Rocky just redefined an icon. In collaboration with Ray-Ban, he’s transformed the classic Wayfarer into something entirely fresh, the Wayfarer Puffer.
Johannes Knop captured by the lens of Julian Freyberg, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Straightforward, adaptable pieces form the core of the collection, with MM6’s signature classics reworked in new ways.
PUMA is back in Paris with a new collaboration, this time with designer Salehe Bembury.
The Polimoda Graduate Show 2025 kicked off Pitti Uomo’s 108th edition, presenting twenty collections from emerging designers that prioritized raw creativity over commercial appeal.
Bershka is doubling down on its mission to spotlight rising artists with Bershka Music, a project that mixes fashion, music, and digital culture.
TOMMY HILFIGER New York, a premium collection launching in February 2026, takes Savile Row tradition and gives it a shot of energy.
The Parisian house started a new chapter with the opening of their new space, located at 10 rue de Picardie, Paris 3rd.
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Amid Impasto of Horizons, as the Guest of Honor at Pitti Immagine Uomo 108.
Niccolò Pasqualetti unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection during Pitti Uomo 108.
Pitti Uomo 108 in collaboration with Japan Fashion Week Organization takes us backstage at the first international runway show for Japanese brand Children of the Discordance.
On a sunny Paris day, we caught up with Damien for a little chat in a park, because talking poetry on a sunny day in Paris on a weekday feels more than right.
Francesco Risso steps down as creative director of fashion house Marni after a decade.
The latest Stüssy drop has arrived, bringing the same effortless cool the brand has built its name on.
Check out some of our favorite streetstyle looks spotted at Pitti Uomo 108.
Japanese designer Hideaki Shikama presented his Spring/Summer 2026 collection “Enfant Terrible” for Children of the discordance, at Pitti Uomo 108.
We talked with Ecstasya about her hiatus, the struggle of keeping Lisbon’s first queer hardcore night (Maythey) alive, and why the best tracks come from being “sad as fuck.”
Zalando just launched a five-piece capsule collection where workwear meets burger obsession.
Young talents have until July 17 to apply for a chance to present their work, receive industry support, and compete for career-changing prizes.
Jun Takahashi has imagined the season in the most bohemian, easy, and relaxed way possible.
Bikkembergs unveiled their latest collab for a new generation of fashion and street culture aficionados at Pitti Uomo 108 with designer Gosha Rubchinskiy reimagining the classic Soccer sneaker.
Patta and Nike reunite for “The New Wave,” a capsule collection centered on the Air Max 90, a silhouette deeply embedded in sneaker culture.
