6 Designers to Watch From Tokyo Fashion Week

Fresh from Japan’s style capital, we saw firsthand why Tokyo Fashion Week (AKA Rakuten Fashion Week TOKYO) deserves a spot alongside the “Big Four.” Collections stomped down runways at locations ranging from a historic amusement park to a contemporary go-kart track for Fall/Winter 2025, delivering everything from grunge-drenched brights to sophisticated menswear that rewrote the rules. Here are the breakout designers you need to know, with talent and vision rising as high as Tokyo’s cloud-piercing skyline.

You can usually tell what to expect from a collection before the show even starts—just scan the front row. KAMIYA’s was a dead giveaway: Tokyo’s coolest—fashion kids, influencers, indie artists—packed the seats, decked out in head-turning fits, sunglasses on, never mind the 7 PM start. The venue, City Circuit Tokyo Bay, only amplified the raw, rebellious vibe—a sprawling go-kart track on the water, setting the stage for the electrifying chaos about to unfold. Then the show hit—hard. Mega-blaring grunge exploded from the speakers, so loud it nearly lifted us off our seats. As the music roared, tatted-up, brooding models stormed the runway clad in grunge-heavy streetwear—let’s just say, if you’re on the hunt for the perfect flannel, KAMIYA’s got you covered. Also on display: baggy cargos, mohair knits, bombers, and artfully distressed denim that looked like it had already lived a thousand lives—often paired with jangling wallet chains swinging from belt loops for an extra dose of ’90s nostalgia. And then there was the head-turning leather—shorts, jackets, vests—many worn shirtless. A teal Kurt Cobain-esque cardigan, perfectly disheveled and riddled with holes, had us seriously reconsidering our stance on knitwear—and making room in our closets for one of our own. Titled “Messengers,” the FW25 collection drew inspiration from “Messengers Style,” Philippe Bialobos’s cult-favorite photobook capturing the unfiltered grit of bike couriers. Graphics of pigeons and cyclists reinforced the theme, alongside bold “KAMIYA TEAM” and “KAMIYA JAPAN” logos reminiscent of national team uniforms. So, it was only fitting that for the finale, the models didn’t walk but cycled through the haze of blinding lights and creeping fog, a nod to the very messengers who inspired the collection. The whole thing oozed effortless grunge and downtown cool—so much so that we were honestly surprised Evan Mock wasn’t sitting front row.

MSML—helmed by the powerhouse trio of vocalist KOJI, bassist T$UYO$HI, and drummer KATSUMA—once again proved that fashion and music are inseparable forces. Taking its name from the slogan “MUSIC SAVED MY LIFE,” the brand delivered a high-voltage FW25 collection titled “DREAMIN’,” inspired by “the overwhelming reality of everyday life that tears dreams apart” and “dreams that can even cover up the overwhelming reality of everyday life.” The glam punk collection featured bold border-knit sweaters, killer leather biker jackets, a clash of animal prints, and slouchy, skater-style jeans—an ode to the baggy denim rocked by ‘90s ska kids—emblazoned with a boombox design. The runway itself pulsed with energy as piercing strobe lights signaled the start of the show, followed by models storming down in a chaotic yet deliberate rhythm, as if they were heading into CBGB—or, insert iconic punk rock club of yesteryear here. And just when the audience thought it was over, MSML’s designers delivered an explosive live rock performance, proving that their world is one where sound and style collide in the most thrilling way possible.

Tokio unleashed its FW25 collection, titled “Im STRANGER,” in an adrenaline-charged show that blurred the lines between fashion, music, and art. A live rock band on an elevated stage next to the runway tore through electrifying riffs, while behind them, artist Ao—a close friend of designer Tokio Kimura—brought a massive canvas to life with spontaneous, chaotic brushstrokes, painting in real time as models stomped the runway. The collection overflowed with a riot of bold brights—electric neons, striking primaries, and high-contrast combos that demanded attention. Punk-infused hairstyling—gravity-defying spikes, razor-sharp bangs, and color-drenched strands—cranked up the rebellion, while silhouettes balanced sharp structure with a raw, unrestrained edge. Unconventional tweed sets were reimagined through a punk lens—think structured jackets paired with cargo pants—while distressed textures, layered proportions, and a reckless mix of prints and patterns felt both spontaneous and meticulously crafted. Camouflage-style graphics, created by Ao, heightened the visual frenzy, reinforcing Kimura’s vision of controlled chaos. “The jumbled world view is what makes the Tokio brand unique,” the designer noted, encapsulating the collection’s theme. The result? A riotous, contagiously energetic spectacle that demanded attention, broke the rules, and had us mentally adding every piece to our shopping carts.

Titled “KESSAKU”—an Osaka dialect term describing something “unexpectedly clever, beyond just amusing, evoking admiration and surprise”—Yoshiokubo’s FW25 collection lived up to its name in every way, starting with the Instagrammable venue: Japan’s oldest amusement park, Asakusa Hanayashiki, which opened its gates in 1853. Against this retro, almost surreal backdrop, models weaved through the park, striding past a spinning carousel. The clothes mirrored the venue’s eccentric charm—sporty, playful, and wacky, with exaggerated silhouettes and layered technical fabrics that felt futuristic yet nostalgic, all while remaining effortlessly wearable. With statement outerwear, unconventional textures, and dynamic layering, the pieces felt just as suited for a K-pop star as for a streetwear aficionado. And in a final unexpected twist, the designer didn’t take the usual post-show bow. Instead, in true “KESSAKU” spirit, he appeared from above in a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it moment—waving to the hip crowd from atop a loud, rickety rollercoaster, bookending the show with a perfect, offbeat flourish.

Paratrait’s runway debut was a hypnotic collision of old and new. Designer Shunta Sakai—formerly designing womenswear for Alexander McQueen and Burberry—launched his label in 2023, where he fuses heritage craftsmanship with technical precision. For FW25, he explored reincarnation through a mix of tradition and innovation, drawing inspiration from ancient Buddhism and the mountain-worship rituals of Kathmandu, Nepal. Think flowing silhouettes with immaculate precision tailoring, oversized wool coats, and wide-leg trousers in a moody palette of indigo, charcoal, and muted earth tones. Traditional elements got a futuristic spin, with a digitally transferred sashiko pattern on jacquard and a standout look inspired by geri, a fabric from Kathmandu. Sci-fi goggles and utilitarian harnesses pushed the aesthetic into dystopian territory, commanding attention—and probably sparking more than a few wardrobe overhauls (ours included).

Tamme, dreamt up by former Sacai pattern maker Tatsuya Tamada, made its highly anticipated debut with a collection rooted in the brand’s core philosophy: updating the existing. The FW25 collection, “Nocturnal Forward,” reinterpreted classic menswear in a boundary-shredding yet wearable way. Models hit the runway in cool eyewear, deconstructed, oversized outerwear, striking leather pieces, and loose, punk-inspired neckties—looks fit for a candlelit date, a stylish speakeasy, or a wild rock concert. Elements of men’s formalwear—tuxedos, bow ties, crisp white shirts—were sliced, layered, and reassembled with military and streetwear influences. A shadowy palette of black and navy dominated, punctuated by compelling pops of fuchsia, rusty orange, and beige. With sharp tailoring, bold contrasts, and a subversive spirit, Tamme’s debut made the kind of first impression designers dream of—and the kind of wardrobe today’s rock stars desperately need.