1017 ALYX 9SM Fall/Winter 23
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
Matthew M Williams has once again chosen Milan to present his collection for the brand he once founded and of which he is still creative director today, 1017 ALYX 9SM. Italian fashion week was the best time to unveil it and the Spazio Maiocchi was the perfect setting for the show.
Surrounded by pieces considered almost works of art, created by the American artist Mark Flood in collaboration with the brand, and to the sound of music by Rabit, the models began to parade with the decision (and care) down a catwalk, in the purest style of the 90s. But without losing any of Matthew’s aesthetics.
Everyone was eager to discover what was new from the American designer, and of course, with their mobile phones ready to immortalize the moment. The season’s pieces that walked the runway included a selection of Flood’s iconic works, as well as graphics developed especially for the collection.
What was particularly striking was the experimental treatments that all the pieces received. You may not know this, but Alyx has always been known for focusing on the development of materials and fabrics, with a desire to merge the technical avant-garde with traditional craftsmanship. In this line, we see further examples of this desire to push the boundaries in the form of sweatshirts, trousers, and T-shirts that have been dyed, washed, printed, and burned, and then meticulously hand-worn by Italian craftsmen. Other garments have extended the use of proprietary distressing techniques that create small random distressed areas on the garment that will cause the piece to change and adapt with wear, gradually revealing the layers underneath. The collection also includes hand-applied stud detailing by Italian artisans on a range of garments from scarves to boots to classic tailoring pieces.
The world of accessories was particularly well developed and championed, in part because of the two models of bags that were introduced: the Payton and the pinstripe. Both items were developed in a range of colors and materials. The Payton, characterized as unisex, comes in smooth, textured, hand-painted leather and incorporates the new Alyx hardwear material. Its small but practical format makes it even more special. Both bags come in several variants with all-over prints as part of the collaboration with Mark Flood.
In the footwear field, it was the same as with the aforementioned. Following the evolution of the Spring/Summer 23 season, this time a new thick sole is presented, integrated into all shoes of the collection. Highly graphic, the sole was developed using the knowledge gained during the development of the Mono range, with the aim of creating a thick, eye-catching sole that is both visually striking and incredibly lightweight. The signature sole is mounted on a range of textured leather uppers in a mid-boot shape, reminiscent of an exaggerated biker boot, and features throughout the collection’s masculine looks.
Check out the collection below:
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