As guests filed in, gate crashers and all (and there were lots), a group of soccer players-cum-models were running laps around the catwalk. Their coach hustling them on. Glistening brown bodies misting in sweat. It felt like an intrusion as we watched them huddle for a team pow wow. Dressed in Hummel athletic gear, a Danish athletic brand who partnered with Willy Chavarria to sponsor New York City soccer players with documented an undocumented citizenship, they walked with poise, as if the catwalk were a college track. Then the show began.
Albeit a hard transition, oversized streetwear enveloped the runway. As we went from the field to 1990. Baggy silhouettes in denim with low hanging pants and Timberland’s machismo’ed their way to the front. Sheer cut off tops sat on torsos and embroidered crosses ornamented backs.
The correlation between the opening act and the collection wasn’t seamless, but the message was clear. Representation is needed. Chavarria does not conform. His castings are not of the traditional sunken face, rocker body type either. His men are full-blooded, full-boned Chicano. And his clothes are intended for such. Willy Chavarria may not be around forever, but his platform is ready and his spotlight set.
For the FW18 campaign Steph Hoff got inspired by the horror genre, paying a tribute to the Italian director Dario Argento’s films (Suspiria, above all) and the cult Friday the 13th by Sean S. Cunningham, with irony and lightness.
Last night, sivasdescalzo presented the new menswear collection by London streetwear brand, Aries Arise in Madrid as part of their disruptive Fall/Winter 2018 campaign.
Diesel took some of the hate received as a brand, like “Diesel is Dead” and “Diesel is not cool anymore” showing them with pride and turning them into unique items.
Marcus Huang graduated from Shih-Chien University this summer. His collection titled “Self-Destruct Mechanism” exist for one sole purpose: to warn people.
Bernhard Willhelm has clear ideas and a lot to tell. He is a natural provocateur, a conscious dissident. His fashion is a courageous, unbridled warning to the rampant respectability, conformism, and the fake anti-conformism.
It’s midnight on a Friday night in 1999… Basement Jaxx is blasting through the speakers of your bedroom stereo and your pre-gaming on Vodka/7ups with your girls!
Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl dream, experiment, have fun. Their Lazoschmidl is an outrageous love declaration to the contemporary man, to the real big-boy.
