Way off the Fashion Week calendar, what would be a normal laissez-faire hump day in New York City turned into a disco, filled with rosé and a runway show. With the Spring/Summer Men’s Fashion Month season behind us, (about a month and some change to be exact) and a seismic shift in American menswear, (New York Fashion Week: Men’s took its official unofficial bow last winter), what’s a boy to do?
With a swoosh of satin and a glitter beat, for Willy Chavarria, like most American designers, the show must go on. A crossbody bag at his side and gold spikes on his knuckle, the Chicano was back. With as always, a message. Messages like “Thank You” and “Breaking News” pridefully etched on his shirts, a Jesus crown atop his head. Simply put, defeat was not an option. But time travel was, inspired by the neon fade of disco and the hard pulse of house, Chavarria took us to the ’90s. A “new take on minimalism” he called it.
With a custom sneaker collaboration with K-Swiss, called The Classic 2000 and jewelry via Chris Habana, I think he missed the mark on minimal. Chavarria’s kill-or-be-killed air was as pungent as ever. Stylishly hidden under Bushwick skater sweats and machismo boxer shirts, of course. Chavarria has honed in on the most important skill of being a designer, an unrelenting point of view. That’s the Way Love Is cried the 1989 Ten City track, aptly in sync with “The Love Garage”, the designer’s name for this collection. Featuring a hard-bodied model; fists up, covered in roses on the evite.
These are uncertain times for American fashion. Often times it can be hard to know which way to turn. But Willy Chavarria has hope, and as the 1975 Captain & Tennille song goes Love Will Keep Us Together.
As we enter the new decade, the brand made the statement that it’s the ‘new decade of sophistication’. What that means is really up to the public to decide. Is new sophistication no social media? Sustainability? No bull-shit?
This was the scene set at Dior: a groupage of boxy-like cages, embodying the lustrous colors of Dior’s dynamism, prodding to mimic a sense of utmost opulence.
While everyone has been trying to redevelop sportswear the past few seasons, Casablanca actually offers something that feels fresh with revisiting retro cuts styled with silk scarves and pearls.
Japanese designer Masayuki Ino, the winner of the 2018 LVMH Prize, chose to present his new collection in a typical Japanese family restaurant where authentic dishes are served as well as Western menus including pizzas, burgers, and fries.
Rapper Offset, who is one-third of the hip-hop trio Migos, presented his collaboration with luxury brand Laundered Work at the American Cathedral in Paris which has turned something into a new hot runway spot ever since Vetements showed there back in 2016.
Rick Owens earns the buzz as far as ambiguity is concerned. His dichotomy is mesmerizing: the manner through which he identifies something out of the slightest atom, turning it into an explosive weapon (the heels, for instance) is noteworthy.
The energy of this season is strong, mysterious, almost mystical. The colorful fantasy of distant countries mixes with 70s rock, and grunge meets sport.
The latest collection of Raf Simons had a moving, emotive connotation because the people he portrayed epitomize an abduction into something different, clinging an intriguing narrative of scattering.
Having just launched in 2019 their menswear line, in 2020 Anton and Ksenia Schnaider continue to give a masculine update to the brand’s signature and carry-over items.
Inspired by Michael Halsband’s unique photographs capturing a series of iconic black and white portraits of Andy Warhol and Jean Michel Basquiat, Anthony Vaccarello has re-edited in collaboration with Everlast an exclusive collection of boxing accessories for Saint Laurent Rive Droite.
Waight Keller’s purpose of redefining the modern man can be classed a forte, but what’s even more enthralling is that she failed not to reference a whole heritage that characterized her (leading-edge) spirit.
And as the designer faced the wildest twists in liability, Virgil has proven his competence and accountability which profitably placed him on top of the urbane ladder.
Jeon Seunghyeok as Visual Director of South Korean brand BLUR 1.0 presents this editorial titled “Another Me” captured by Kwangseok and styling by @m.miminming with pieces from the latest collection.
