KRISVANASSCHE Spring/Summer 2014
by Adriano Batista
“There is always an element of contrast in what we do here,” explains Kris Van Assche of his latest collection. “And the idea of sport – an element I have had since my first collection, where all of the shoes were white Stan Smiths with a green logo – versus the grown-up, chic connotations of cognac as both a drink and a classic colour of men’s leather goods, was a combination I wanted to explore. The men who have grown up with sportswear, wearing it since they were boys, are often some of the most sophisticated fashion customers. Because they have always had an eye for detail – whether they are looking at a trainer or a handmade shoe. The collection is about that personal interpretation of the rules and the codes of menswear, not adhering to the prescribed, clichéd view of a choice of either ‘sport’ or ‘chic’ – it’s both. The attitude of the collection is anti-precious, avoiding ‘the dandy’, playful, yet still enjoying the refined.”
A bold, sporting feel colours the latest Kris Van Assche collection both literally and metaphorically this season. The clichéd game of the ‘masculine wardrobe’ is not to be played in the expected way. Classic connotations of ‘sport’ and ‘chic’ are combined, transposed and playfully transgressed.
Hybrid silhouettes permeate the collection: frequently the sporting cagoule jacket is cross-fertilised with the elegant cut of the trench; shorts are worn with tailored double breasted jackets, their buttons partly replaced by leather covered press studs; the daring colours and patterns of sportswear are applied to the sober shapes of classic tailoring.
At the same time meanings of fabrics, styles and symbols are also transposed, being boldly moved to give them different connotations. The finest Swiss cotton pique, a fabric most often associated with traditional bib fronted evening shirts, can be applied in the making of a cagoule, and appears almost utilitarian. Crocodile and polka dots – those traditional symbols of chic and discreet masculine decoration – are playfully made the main focus of knitwear, prints and more sporting accessories such as rucksacks and trainers. Traditional loafers and brogues are combined with elements of sports shoes, or find their decorative, perforated patterns as emboldened prints adorning shirting.
The notion of serious masculine identities in menswear, which must abide by either dandified gentlemanly codes or those of the street and sportswear, are challenged this season. The wearer can choose each all at once – and have freedom and fun while doing so.
Juun J Spring/Summer 2014
Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 2014
Simone Baggio and Luca Borsi photographed by Fabrizio Martelli and styled by Giorgia Devalle, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
We just got back from our first Yaga Gathering off the map, deep in the Dzukija forests in Lithuania. We were greeted with heavy rains and friendly people, who told us this was a magical healing forest,… »
For its Summer 2025 campaign, GUESS JEANS taps Hawaiian model-actor-skater Evan Mock and LA creative Alana Champion to channel the effortless cool of its most iconic ads.
New Era has reworked its classic 9FORTY cap for 2025, introducing the M-Crown, a sleeker, more structured take on the streetwear staple.
Italian fashion house Gucci presents its new advertising campaign: “The Gucci Portrait Series”.
Prada’s campaign shows what clothes do when they’re worn, when they’re part of a body in motion.
Vivobarefoot’s new Primus Trail Flow Mid is for hikers who want to feel the ground, not fight it.
Since 1970, the Rencontres d’Arles has been the premier international photography festival and one of the major cultural events in the South of France.
Sheep Inc, the London-based sustainable fashion brand, has just dropped a jacket that’s a love letter to the countryside.
No matter what you wear, ARNETTE’s sunglasses will steal the show. ARNETTE invites us to spend a weekend at the Boombastic Festival in Spain.
Songzio has found its perfect muse in ATEEZ member Seonghwa, announcing him as their new global ambassador.
Just weeks after teasing new music, Tyler, The Creator has delivered. His ninth studio album, Don’t Tap The Glass, is out now!
The Metcon 10 arrives as the lightest, most stable version yet, designed to handle every part of an athlete’s workout without compromise.
LOEWE’s Landscape collection, first shown in the Fall/Winter 2024 pre-collection, transforms leather into something that feels alive.
We caught up with Billy to chat on film, fashion, and fear, but it was clear that he is passionately nerdy about music.
Six years after his last album, Dev Hynes, better known as Blood Orange, announces Essex Honey, set for release on August 29th, 2025.
Arte Antwerp treats design as something everyone should own, wear, and use to say something.
Far different from the Ibiza of neon-lit clubs, this is a nine-acre sanctuary where rustic Spanish finca charm meets understated Soho House cool.
Pull&Bear’s latest capsule collection draws inspiration from Henri Matisse, transforming his playful shapes and vivid colors into summer-ready clothes and accessories.
Jason Fejiro photographed by Johanna Stroud and styled by Jay Taglè, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
For the first time, the work of more than 60 artists who have lived and created at the TOM House will come together in FXLK PLAY: Mythmaking, Devotion, and Mischief, an exhibition opening September 12, 2025, at Long Hall in West Hollywood’s Plummer Park.
Oakley is taking its expertise from extreme sports to outer space.
There’s something raw and electric in Last Exit on Bethnal, the new collaborative project between London producer/DJ Hannah Holland and filmmaker/photographer Lydia Garnett.
JIL SANDER backed the production of a seven-track EP and the Hamburg-shot music video for the song “Wanderlust”.
Balenciaga’s Winter 2025 campaign strips away polish in favor of something more intriguing: real moments in real spaces.
Marine Serre unveiled the first chapter of its “Heads or Tails” campaign, captured by the lens of Julia et Vincent.
Thirty students from fashion schools across Europe will gather in Barcelona this November to tackle one of the industry’s biggest challenges: waste.
The Phantom of the Opera has chosen his designer. Nicola Formichetti has been appointed Director of Masks for Masquerade, the new immersive Phantom experience coming to New York.
MM6 Maison Margiela and Dr. Martens are teaming up again, this time with a capsule that twists classic Docs into something fresh.
Kwir Nou Éxist project, a photo installation conceived by model, actress and activist Raya Martigny and her partner Edouard Richard, is now on view until July 25 in the iconic Tuileries Garden in Paris.
