Katie Eary showed her collection for AW16 in the basement showspace of Victoria House this afternoon. Citing her inspirations as the rockstars of the 1970s – Lou Reed, Iggy Pop and, rather poignantly, David Bowie, as this morning, heartbreakingly, his death was announced by the media.
This season over LC:M there seems to have been a trend of designers maturing and taking on a more wearable aesthetic for the AW16 season. Opting for a richer and more sophisticated palette than her usual pops of bright colour, Eary explains that she’s seizing on a subtler approach than she’s taken before.
This new direction takes us down the path of muted plum tone prints on peach silk robes and pyjamas, swirling down the runway. Prints for Eary this season come in paisley, stripes and her animal of choice – the butterfly tail goldfish, but with a typical Eary twist – it has human eyes. This print is scattered throughout the collection on sweaters, trousers and silks alike.
Luxurious textures run through the show in metallic leathers, crushed velvet and a Mongolian lamb trimmed coat. Jackets come in boxy silhouettes and are styled with knitwear, slim but relaxed leather, PVC and cotton trousers and Chelsea boots to complete the sumptuous rockstar feel.
Inspired by a thrill-seeking youth fond of excess, the “Hamptons Parano” collection by Uniforme Paris is built around a bleary, psychedelic, under the influence perception of reality.
Y-3 Spring/Summer 2019 is born from Yohji Yamamoto’s obsession with “air between the body” and adidas’ devotion to movement by engineering apparel and footwear for the human form.
For Spring/Summer 2019, Sean Suen explores the territory between the helplessness of youth and the freedom of escape, the excitement of running away and the fear that leads into hiding.
Designer Chitose Abe’s signature riff on hybrid starts by drawing on the decreasing relevance of the boundaries of season, by continuing a narrative that takes fabrics and patterns associated with one season and transposing them to another.
The Études collection for Spring/Summer 2019 evokes a conceit of soft masculinity, where the spirit of a West Coast vagabond traverses early Hip Hop’s forgotten glory.
The SS19 collection of Amiri, presented at The Théâtre National de Chaillot, was conceived with the colors of a Los Angeles sunset in mind and punctuated by primary pastel shades, representing the final procession of a sunrise.
Hed Mayner’s collections present a tension between fluid and structured pieces, influenced by traditional Jewish orthodox tailoring and military outwear.
Hernan Cano at Brave Milan styled by Lorenzo Chiara with pieces from MSGM, GCDS, Vivienne Westwood, Acne Studios, and Burberry, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
In a new phase of exploration into “the worker” aesthetic, Preston considers the assembly line with the Spring/Summer 2019 collection that is marked by recontextualization of factory issued prints, serial numbers and codes for high fashion.
