Since their SS17 debut, we have seen the HELIOT EMIL™ collection on their home turf in Copenhagen. For Fall Winter 20/21 we were sent a link to click on for 1pm on Friday during Paris Fashion Week. While it’s not out of place for many designers to live stream in front of an audience, everyone was sent their RSVP a week before. I just assumed that this was to lower the environmental impact, and the timing couldn’t have seen the looming impact that the coronavirus has had all week. However, I didn’t expect the experience. The experience of no long lines, influencers getting photographed, the removal of front rows and overall fashion show politics. Some people have pointed out that they need this physical, person to person experience that we share during the fashion week. But the truth is, with so much moving around, everyone seems to be looking at their phones anyway.
Once logged in, I was invited to experience the universe of HELIOT EMIL™ with their collection titled ‘AMORPHOUS SOLID’. At first, the experience was one of isolation and claustrophobia before I got the hang of the 360-degree view. I saw more of the garments, accessories and especially shoes than any traditional runway show (and most live streams are still from a distance). In a world where we all shoot the same videos and get the same angles on the runway, the virtual experience here was definitely a more bespoke one under my control. The “view morphing” technique of the camera runs into the collection made up of morphing forms of the garments, the relation of form and function combined with the technicality of the fabrics.
Shape vs material is something that the brand explores with pieces that can be reshaped or reconstructed to personalize the look. An exciting fabric was the liquid metal fabric that changes our perception of light. While brothers Julius and Victor Juuls who founded the brand haven’t dramatically changed their aesthetic this season or are chasing the latest trends, their quality and craftsmanship has gone up and looks like they will continue to explore the possibilities and roles of technology. I’m curious to see if they will take a direction to more fabric innovation and protection as we face strange days ahead.
The Prada FW21 collection by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons takes as its basis an intimate and personal wish for contact, our urge to exchange and relate. The foundation of all is the individual: the human body, and its freedom.
Han Kjøbenhavn’s presented its Fall/Winter 2021 collection during Milan Fashion Week, featuring dramatic silhouettes and hard shapes mixed with refined craftsmanship techniques.
Tokyo James Fall/Winter 2021 collection entitled ‘OGIDI OKUNRIN’ (‘The Strong Man’) looks at the concept of unity and masculinity through the gaze of the modern Nigerian man.
Iceberg’s Creative Director James Long unleashes a Fall/Winter 2021 collection that channels the carefree eccentricity and angst of the 1990s Brit Pop, underground rap, and acid rock scenes.
In his Fall/Winter 2021 collection, David Catalán revisits the essence of the brand. The collection is developed upon the necessities of the work-wear mixed with the classic wardrobe.
The kick-off episode sees Polish American artist Julian Klincewicz work on an eight-piece collection driven and inspired by a sense of play and a return to childhood, with imagination in motion.
Continuing a long tradition of acclaimed designer collaborations, H&M announces today a new collaboration with the London-based fashion designer Simone Rocha.
To celebrate the upcoming Chinese New Year, Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele has envisioned a dedicated collection of special items featuring the famous Japanese manga and anime character, Doraemon.
Yungblud is more than a pop-rock singer who reshaped the current pop culture, Yungblud is about a community and how confident we need to be in our daily life.
We think of manhood as eternal, a timeless essence that resides deep in the heart of every man. We think of manhood as a thing, a quality that one either has or doesn’t have. We think of manhood as innate,… »
Rich Brian photographed by Hengyi Liang for our most delicious issue
“Food is sex. Food is injustice. Food is insecurity. Food is security. Food is dialogue, it is even a confrontation of ideas. Food is memory”
This issue encompasses an extensive range of subjects from veganism to the time Paris ate its Zoo. Ghetto Gastro, Etienne Russo, along with designers Emily Bode, Masahiro Ino of Doublet, Mats Rombaut, and Priya Ahluwalia all join in on the conversation and share some of their favorite recipes!
