Lou Dalton created a militaristic Fall/Winter 2012 collection featuring vintage inspired caps and stone washed denim. »

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Lou Dalton created a militaristic Fall/Winter 2012 collection featuring vintage inspired caps and stone washed denim. »
Martine Rose‘s Fall/Winter 2012 collection seemed inspired by the 1990s hip hop style, featured a mix of urbane elements alongside preppy elements. »
Fall 2012 looks combat green in the eyes of Sarah Burton, appointed creative director at McQ since Alexander’s passing away. The diffusion line takes the stage for the first time, bringing WWII military finery through and through. Leather globes, wool coats, trench coats, and army combat boots. The inspiration seems a bit passé… However, it was the perfect excuse to execute uncluttered tailoring and bring it to the spotlight. What reminds me Inglourious Basterds, Michael Fassbender… and his snub at the Oscars! –Just saying. »
Craig Green’s Saint Martins MA F/W 1 collection looks east for inspiration. Turkish Whirling Dervishes come to mind, going round and about. Clean cut Turkish abayas for men. Long niqāb and taqiyah caps are in full bloom too. Even so, the total look is austere. Exoticism is nowhere to be seen –black and white predominate the color palette. These men walk the urban landscape, backpackers of the future coupling East with West. »
If there is something to highlight in Kenji Kawasumi‘s Central Saint Martins’ MA F/W 12 collection is the experimentation with thick wools and felts. A creamy pastiche of puffy coats and garments, heavy pants for winter that look like warm-y melted packing-peanuts. It’s not the first time that the Japanese designer explores new ways of working with textiles though. He did so on his BA collection, using laser cut fabrics and mixing knit with clear acrylic. An approach to fashion that goes hand in hand with textile research. Now that body silhouettes seem to have been all done and designed, fabrics become the next lab for avant-garde; something Japanese artists are very well known for (Miyake, anyone?). »
Marni’s collection for H&M is all about freedom and experimentation. Marni prints and colours intended to mix and match together in a playful way. For men, the colours and fabrics are softened for a relaxed take on menswear staples that is truly Marni. The use of print is subtle, often as a lining or as a contrast detail for shirts, the silhouette a modern and relaxed take on masculine classics. »
Marc Jacobs‘ diffusion line offered military-inspired clothes. The somber collection featured strong outerwear pieces, chic topcoats, tailored pants and clunky flat boots. »
Jeremy Scott created a fun and colorful Fall/Winter 2012 collection featuring Juicy Fruit stripes, smiley faces and Bart Simpson. Psychedelic prints were seen on virtually every garment from sweaters to pants to footwear. Scott also featured luxurious fur-line outerwear. »
Custo Barcelona showed a Fall/Winter 2012 collection full of wild prints, fur and leather detailing. »
Marlon Gobel’s inspirations for his Fall/Winter 2012 collection were many and assorted. On a first glance, a futuristic approach to the youth’s decade, the 50’s, came to mind. Football-inspired super heroes dressed in Swarovski crystal armor shared the catwalk with cutting-edge detectives in quirky, textured puffy suits. Lumberjacks and preppy high-scholars were depicted too. The New York based designer sure fancied a good clean-cut silhouette, all men dressed in straight pants and waist-length tops. »