1X1 STUDIO Spring/Summer 2020
by Maisie Goulsbra
Unknowingly situated in The London Edition, the 1×1 SS20 presentation leads its audience through candlelit corridors into the basement. Lit in hues of orange and blue, the ethereal interior draws attention to an entire back wall with what is discernably finished with corn on the cob.
‘Corn to be worn’ is the building blocks of Yi-Ling Kuo’scollection, which is primarily designed at sustainability. Remarkably the collection is proud in its assertion that if buried in soil, it would take just five years to decompose. Not only sourced from corn yarns, the collection also makes use of recycled bottle fabrics. With this in mind, models wear transparent plastic visors and face pieces in contrast with others whose vision is obstructed with a face full of daisies.
1×1 SS20 brought with it a lesser take on the asymmetrical geometric shapes seen in the last collection. It was still seen subtlety in white shirt collars worn under woolen slipover vests. Knitwear remained in the collection, hung loose with round necklines, ribbing and cable knits were seen ruched. Building on traditional shapes, a baby blue lightweight woolen trench was worn; and some pieces were segmented and attached with fluorescent orange yarn.
In relation to Kuo’s hometown, the collection gives an industrial feel, which is reflected in the mechanical movement of the models. Live vocal performance set over an electro beat had the audience pulsating, looking forward to a future that is fashionably sustainable.
Though collegiate, models seemed equipped for something to come. Surreptitious silhouettes with cut off above the knees but almost every look had itself toggle hanging or drawstring pockets. Pieces permit its wearer to take with it a bottle in the perfectly fitted pockets as if in response to the material it is made from.
In relation to Kuo’s hometown, the collection gives an industrial feel, which is reflected in the mechanical movement of the models and the functionality of each look. Live vocal performance set over an electro beat had the audience pulsating, looking forward to a future that is fashionably sustainable.
Like the relationship seen between the violinist who opened playing over electronic music, 1×1 combines new forms of production and construction with modern takes on classic shapes for a relaxed but confident look.
Martine Rose Spring/Summer 2020
STREETSTYLE | London Fashion Week Men’s SS20 – Part 2
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