Young Younger Youngest: #MFW Recap day 1 & 2
by Yari Fiocca
There are three things I treasure of my bygone boyhood:
1) pansexuality
2) hopeless loves
3) the opportunity of wearing unpretentious clothes and not to look like a dumbass
Transcending points 1 and 2, fashion hadn’t any particular substance that time, we wore clothes to simply be ourselves without too many implications. A frayed jeans, a worn sweatshirt, a creased shirt were somewhat self-reflexive and cut across other people’s appreciation. These first two days of Milan Fashion Week see designers playing with those unpretentious clothes- that are just unpretentious indeed! – without too many implications!
Milan Vukmirovic, creative director of Ports 1961, rediscovers the word LOVE. Now I ask you: Can a collection titled Army Of Love be considered as something more than a collection made of unpretentious clothes for unpretentious young boys? I dunno! Anyway, the offering was a soft exercise of romanticism and Nineties minimalism which feasts your eyes upon a naive wardrobe that’s too naive even for a Dawson’s Creek aficionado. Ermenegildo Zegna delivered a fresh collection of sublime beauty where high tailoring and sportswear coexist. Alessandro Sartori has finally shown the true grit he kept hidden during Berluti. You can always count on Melbostad’s Diesel Black Gold if your libido is particularly subdued. Well, it’s such a shame this time was not so. I cannot deny that Andreas’s take was winning, this time as ever, but the line has lost much of his mature masculinity in favour of a more undeveloped one.
Diesel Black Gold FW17
Christian Pellizzari evokes the Hollywood Recency and, even if I’m not a big fan of maximalism, I have to give my approval to the opulent brocade, iridescent satin and (oh Jesus!) gold lurex jacquard. Just one remark: palm prints were so Puglisi SS14! La Triennale is the setting for Marras’ show but I’m not sure it was really a show and, most importantly, I’m not sure it was about fashion. It was more a concept that, in any case, I haven’t understood yet. The foundation of Neil Barrett line is tailoring and contrasting silhouettes. After two seasons of a tedious sameness, Neil showed an intense and convincing collection that looks back at his heritage with modernity.
Neil Barrett FW17
Notte Vandebosch draw inspiration from the world of aviation and late 70’s punk. The upshot could be disastrous in other hands but Les Hommes know how to mix things and mix them good. Marcelo Burlon presented his New Renaissance where extreme proportions and bold silhouettes took center stage while Jeremy Scott focused on Action Man, the Guardians Of The Galaxy and other typical Moschino creatures. This season Phillip Plein went out the door with his first line and back through the window with Plein Sport. The show was trashy in the perfect Plein style and pretty surreal to be defined sportswear.
Les Hommes FW17
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Fucking Young! as a whole.
Givenchy “Rottweiler” Capsule Collection
The Contemporary Classic
Achilles Ion Gabriel is leaving Camper. The company has announced he will step down as Creative Director for both the main Camper brand and its experimental line, CAMPERLAB.
Mark Zymaroiev photographed and styled by Jacek Szopik, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Louis Vuitton is marking ten years of its partnership with UNICEF. To celebrate, the house is releasing a special new version of its Silver Lockit pendant, this time made in yellow gold.
G-STAR presented its FW26 collection at its own headquarters in Amsterdam. The show, called Spotlight Returns, was held at RAWFACTORY, where the brand designs and houses its archive.
Gentle Monster has released its 2026 Bouquet Collection. The launch is centered on a campaign film co-directed by the musician FKA twigs and the artist Jordan Hemingway.
Dior has a new ambassador! The house has welcomed actor Josh O’Connor to represent the collections designed by Jonathan Anderson.
Le Labo has released a special edition of its CYPRÈS 21 candle. Titled CYPRÈS 21 Indigo, the candle is a tribute to the Japanese craft of indigo dyeing.
No Fear is clarifying its direction. The brand is launching a core line called NO FEAR SPORT.
Twins Rory & Jude and Zack Carton photographed by Declan Kelly and styled by Josh Cryne, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
For its ninth edition, from February 12 to 15, 2026, it will take over the newly renovated Villa Beaulieu.
For the Chinese New Year, Maison Valentino focuses on the feeling of a beginning. The campaign, for the Year of the Horse, is about dreaming and connection.
AMIRI has a new global ambassador: Yuta Jinguji. He is a Japanese musician, a member of the group Number_i, and also a producer for their music.
Church’s makes its lightest shoes ever. The new Roadrunner collection takes the brand’s classic English shapes and reworks them for a faster pace.
The first collections from Jonathan Anderson for Dior are now in stores. To mark the launch, the house has created special window displays around the world.
For the Spring/Summer 2026 campaign, Prada does not simply show the clothes. It shows us looking at them.
Lucas Dermont, Jonathan Kallifatides, and Aamos Vikberg, photographed by Tsuyoshi Kiritohshi and styled by Nana Iwata, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Saint Laurent unveils its Spring 2026 campaign, captured by Glen Luchford, with Mark Eydelshteyn and Mubarak among others.
This winter, GUESS is putting its mark on the mountains. For its 45th anniversary, the brand brings back its Winter Takeover across the Alps.
Gucci presents La Famiglia, its latest campaign and the first visual statement of a new era shaped by attitude, character and Italian ease.
Risso is an interesting choice. Italian-born, he trained in fashion across several cities and spent ten years working within Prada.
Burberry introduces its new Gabardine Capsule, an entire collection built on its foundational fabric.
Miguel López photographed by Santiago Neyra and styled by Manuel Pérez, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Lacoste looks back seventy years to the 1956 Winter Olympics in Cortina d’Ampezzo.
For the fifth year, Ami Paris marks the Lunar New Year. This edition, celebrating the Year of the Horse, is called Wild Spark.
The Dior Book Tote gets a new chapter this season!
The photographer Cho Giseok and Songzio have worked together five times now. They understand each other. For the new campaign, called “Polyptych,” Cho Giseok builds a world in pieces.
For its fourth chapter, Pas Une Marque presents a collection called “Devil’s in the Details.”
Daniel Solano photographed by Ferran Casanova and styled by Cristian Betancurt, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
For its Spring/Summer 2026 campaign, KENZO goes back to Maxim’s.
This year, Tate Britain will host an exhibition curated by Edward Enninful, titled The 90s. It will open on October 8, 2026, and run until February 14, 2027.
The exhibition will explore a decade known for its creativity… »
