Young Younger Youngest: #MFW Recap day 1 & 2
by Yari Fiocca
There are three things I treasure of my bygone boyhood:
1) pansexuality
2) hopeless loves
3) the opportunity of wearing unpretentious clothes and not to look like a dumbass
Transcending points 1 and 2, fashion hadn’t any particular substance that time, we wore clothes to simply be ourselves without too many implications. A frayed jeans, a worn sweatshirt, a creased shirt were somewhat self-reflexive and cut across other people’s appreciation. These first two days of Milan Fashion Week see designers playing with those unpretentious clothes- that are just unpretentious indeed! – without too many implications!
Milan Vukmirovic, creative director of Ports 1961, rediscovers the word LOVE. Now I ask you: Can a collection titled Army Of Love be considered as something more than a collection made of unpretentious clothes for unpretentious young boys? I dunno! Anyway, the offering was a soft exercise of romanticism and Nineties minimalism which feasts your eyes upon a naive wardrobe that’s too naive even for a Dawson’s Creek aficionado. Ermenegildo Zegna delivered a fresh collection of sublime beauty where high tailoring and sportswear coexist. Alessandro Sartori has finally shown the true grit he kept hidden during Berluti. You can always count on Melbostad’s Diesel Black Gold if your libido is particularly subdued. Well, it’s such a shame this time was not so. I cannot deny that Andreas’s take was winning, this time as ever, but the line has lost much of his mature masculinity in favour of a more undeveloped one.
Diesel Black Gold FW17
Christian Pellizzari evokes the Hollywood Recency and, even if I’m not a big fan of maximalism, I have to give my approval to the opulent brocade, iridescent satin and (oh Jesus!) gold lurex jacquard. Just one remark: palm prints were so Puglisi SS14! La Triennale is the setting for Marras’ show but I’m not sure it was really a show and, most importantly, I’m not sure it was about fashion. It was more a concept that, in any case, I haven’t understood yet. The foundation of Neil Barrett line is tailoring and contrasting silhouettes. After two seasons of a tedious sameness, Neil showed an intense and convincing collection that looks back at his heritage with modernity.
Neil Barrett FW17
Notte Vandebosch draw inspiration from the world of aviation and late 70’s punk. The upshot could be disastrous in other hands but Les Hommes know how to mix things and mix them good. Marcelo Burlon presented his New Renaissance where extreme proportions and bold silhouettes took center stage while Jeremy Scott focused on Action Man, the Guardians Of The Galaxy and other typical Moschino creatures. This season Phillip Plein went out the door with his first line and back through the window with Plein Sport. The show was trashy in the perfect Plein style and pretty surreal to be defined sportswear.
Les Hommes FW17
The views and opinions expressed in this piece are those of the author, and do not necessarily reflect the position of Fucking Young! as a whole.
Givenchy “Rottweiler” Capsule Collection
The Contemporary Classic
For FW23, Flaneur present their “somewhere in europe” collection, paying homage to the birthplace of the Flaneur, and the brand’s home in Paris.
Max Kobosil, the founder of 44 LABEL GROUP, organized a rave in Paris during fashion week to celebrate the launch of his brand’s new Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
We caught up with KIDILL‘s artistic director Hiroki following their Fall/Winter 2023 presentation during Paris Fashion Week at culture hub 3537.
Japanese designer Nigo and Kenzo welcomed a start-studded crowd last Friday to their fashion show and after-party during Paris Fashion Week including a live performance by Lil Baby.
For more than 160 years, Louis Vuitton has managed to expand its universe through numerous artistic collaborations.
Designed by Scott Ramon Seguro Mescudi, also known as Kid Cudi, Members Of The Rage is a
Ready-To-Wear collection for outsiders everywhere, designed in Los Angeles and Made In Italy.
Titled “Homme Fatal”, ARTURO OBEGERO’s FW23 collection takes inspiration from the infamous female archetype and redefines it as a seductive and magnetic man who does not cause danger.
Conceived as leitmotifs, the L and V intertwine their immaculate lines to create an architectural motif.
Inspired by the world of The Simpsons, this fun and functional collection from EASTPAK features many of the show’s characters in a mix of layered and all-over prints in 7 different styles.
SYSTEM STUDIOS Fall/Winter 2023 collection was built under the concept of “Returning Legacy,” looking back at the 32 years of its history and refocusing on the essence of the brand.
This season LES BENJAMINS casts its eye on the pre-existing notions of Earth and
its far-flung locales into something more abstract and aesthetically distant.
Estelita Mendonça unveiled its Fall/Winter 2023 collection photographed by João Octavio and styled by Simão Bolivar.
2023 is set to be the year of menswear at Christian Louboutin, with standout styles that promise to take the modern man’s wardrobe in a bold new direction.
Photographer Alexánder C. Luque brings us a selection of the best looks captured in the streets of Berlin during Berlin Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
This season, Hugues Fauchard and Rémi Bats return to the essentials, perfecting apparent simplicity and transposing into soft colors and textures the pure lines and minimal cuts that are the foundation of UNIFORME.
For the 2023 Co-Ed Collection, Maison Margiela conceives a multi-layered premise inspired by the procreation of Count and Hen, the fugitive protagonists introduced in its Artisanal 2022 proposal, Cinema Inferno.
This season, a change of perspective helped guide the direction for Ernest W. Baker‘s Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
“Kosmische” is the name given to the unveiled proposal, which deals with the philosophy between fashion and the street, as the brand weaves diverse cultures into its designs.
Exploring a theme of transformation and playing with the relationship between past, present, and future, sacai designer Chitose Abe presents a collection of looks that transfigure into something new.
For Fall/Winter 2023, WOOYOUNGMI has been inspired to reflect on the historical relationship between South Korea and the West.
Surprise! Ludovic de Saint Sernin is back at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, after celebrating the fifth anniversary of his eponymous label last September.
We don’t know what it is about Marine Serre‘s show, but it always causes a frenzy in the French capital.
