After winning the Jury prize at the 2010 Hyeres Festival, Yann Gross returns to Hyères to exhibit the result of a commission : to photograph the outfits of the 10 shortlisted fashion designers.
2011 Featured designers by Yann Gross:
Oda Pausma – Here everything starts with an end: a vanished love… Long black silhouettes create a sad parade. Fluid silk combined with structured leather reflect the melancholic character of the collection.
Juliette Alleaume et Marie Vial – Their collection, which takes a scarecrow as its theme, wishes to be a pretext for spontaneous creation, to serve as a support for experimentation and reflection upon the human form. Imposing and troubling, their futuristic idols intend to commit a genuine affront against modesty.
Mads Dinesen – The designer explores the colonial memory of his home country. The collection stages a spirit world: silhouettes without face or nation, collage of cultural typologies, emerge from dark crevices of Denmark’s history. That highly personal stance on the collective denial attempts to understand the past so as to master the present.
Céline Méteil – This stylist has chosen to feature jaconet, a light muslin which is normally used for fittings, in order to create floating and structured origami-dresses which engage with the body.
Émilie Meldem – This designer takes her inspiration from her native Switzerland, which she transposes into an isolated country, caught between modernity and tradition, restriction and freedom, fragility and strength. This duality results in a form of minimal eccentricity, which is at the same time decorative and radical.
Maryam Kordbacheh – Maryam Kordbacheh is inspired by the organic formation of the natural world. These handcrafted garments, moulded from a single length of fabric, at first glance appear simple, in spite of their extremely refined, delicate, and intimate sculptural form.
Janosch Mallwitz – The graduation ceremony, its outfit, the gowns and the mortarboards which are thrown in the air, all the clichés of American high schools are the starting point for this collection, which also speaks about initiatiion youth and identity. A fashion style which navigates between concept and instinct.
Léa Peckre – Though her collection may be inspired by cemeteries, it is not out of some taste for the macabre, but instead a fascination for a world whose constituent parts she has strived to translate. For example, the structured shapes reminds one of the rigidity of mausoleums, whilst the colours and the materials used evoke the tones and harshness of tombstones.
Michael Kampe – For Kampe, fragmenting is a way to revolt against the rules of menswear. His collection is influenced by the changes of society, triggered by internet and new media. This designer imagines urban wear on the edge of wearable art and couture, which also refers to classical pieces that are twisted, broken, shuffled, and newly rearranged.
Oriane Leclercq – In this collection, it is a question of surface, of trompe-l’œil, of appearance, of a fascination for smoothness. This designer teases synthetic materials, superimposing latex masks upon them with a lustre that is shinier than skin. The garment becomes no more than a drape of lycra which moulds itself to the shape of the body.