Y/PROJECT Fall/Winter 2023
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
We were left wanting to discover the Y/PROJECT collection last men’s fashion week, but what really happened? Why did the designer change the date of his long-awaited show at the last minute? All these unknowns were in the air until practically last Tuesday, but they don’t matter anymore, because what will remain in time is how good the collection recently presented in Paris was. Once again, the saying that good things come to those who wait is true.
Glenn Martens‘ mind is always buzzing with ideas, but if there’s one thing he has been thinking about in recent months, it is a famous quote from the composer Handel’s famous aria, Lascia ch’io pianga, which says: “Let me weep over my cruel fate, and let me sigh for liberty.” This phrase, which at first glance may go unnoticed by some, has been one of the Belgian designer’s sources of inspiration throughout the process of creating the Fall/Winter 2023-2024 line for the brand he founded.
Full of pain, serenity, and solemnity, Glenn has reflected the aforementioned feelings in the garments of his proposal, among which the embroidered ensembles, the knitted sweatshirts with trimmings, or the tweed coats embroidered with denim caught the eye. A majesty that is present in large kaftans, as well as in denim, or bombers, and adaptable coats made with several layers.
Theatricality was also present, albeit infused with irony, referencing the prelude to Lars von Trier’s Antichrist that accompanies Handel’s music. Contrasting with this genre, carefully cropped screenshots of pornographic films printed on tops or sweaters began to appear. The playfulness was beginning to get more and more interesting, like multi-necked shirts or Y/P outfits.
In the same mischievous but spectacular spirit is a new model of boots, covered with leather or denim panels, shaped by snap buttons. At the moment these have only been introduced for women, but who knows if next season we’ll see the boys hitting the catwalk with them. In fashion, anything is possible.
Finally, the “Paris Best” print, a reference to Y/Project’s denim jacquard from 2013, imagines a coat of arms of the house, with an Eiffel Tower as a visual background, embroidered on denim bags. The same material is imitated in another bag design, made of leather and inserted with wires. The latter sometimes become jewels and reproduce the signs of hands: complicity, unity, and individuality. Like the soundtrack of the exhibition, signed Senjan Jansen.
See the collection below:
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