Thom Browne returned to Paris, and as always, he didn’t come to do things by halves. The show took place in a palace with imperial interiors, yet what unfolded on the runway felt more like a landing from another galaxy. Official notes mentioned space invaders and the year 3000, but at its core, Browne continues to explore what fascinates him most: how to rewrite the rules of men’s tailoring without losing its soul.
Presented for Spring/Summer 2025, the collection was a blend of order and chaos; on one hand, the precise tailoring that only Browne can achieve — with forward-set shoulders, exact pinching, and layers that multiply —; on the other, a lightly camp theatricality that turns the suit into something more conceptual than literal. Everything is carefully measured, yet nothing feels static.
Coats with sleeves that seemed to detach from the body, waistcoats, and skirts that defied any notion of uniformity dominated the runway. In Browne’s universe, tailoring expands, curves, and distorts, but never loses its structure. The deliberate exaggeration adds a playful wink to the spectator, reminding us that humour and luxury can coexist.
Footwear played a crucial role: two-tone lace-up boots and shoes accompanied each look like a natural extension of the tailoring. The chromatic contrast and solidity of the shapes balanced the theatricality of the silhouettes, reinforcing the subtle camp thread that runs through the collection.
One of the most talked-about moments was the tops simulating bare torsos, intricately hand-embroidered with tiny beads. From a distance, they looked like paintings on skin; up close, pure craftsmanship. This kind of visual play is what keeps Browne’s work alive: the ability to move between the serious and the absurd without losing elegance.
Beyond the spectacle — because there is always a spectacle — what lingered was a rare optimism. At a time when men’s fashion often hides behind minimalism or ironic ugliness, Thom Browne continues to embrace fantasy, excess, construction, and emotion. He isn’t afraid to appear eccentric. He prefers that to being boring.
For years, the designer has insisted that tailoring can be fun. And here he proves it once again: the suits may be from another planet, yes, but the attitude is profoundly human.
Have a look at the Thom Browne Spring/Summer 2026 collection below:
