A month ago, the American designer Thom Browne – Founder and Creative Director of the brand that bears his name – conquered the majority of fashion critics with his Resort 2025 collection, in which he once again reimagined the concept of tailoring and offered a new chapter in it, demonstrating that if one wants to, it is possible to continue to do something innovative.
It can be difficult to be innovative nowadays, since practically everything has been seen, but if one surrounds oneself with a good team and gets along with them, it is totally feasible. Thom and his team do this, and as evidence is his latest work, presented during New York Fashion Week, on a set made up of 2,000 white origami paper birds and two caged lovers yearning to be free, and in front of hundreds of guests, including A-list celebrities such as Adrien Brody, Evan Mock, and Lucky Blue Smith, among many others.
Sometimes celebrities are an important factor for firms or fashion houses when it comes to elevating their respective shows, but in this case, without them, the attention received would be the same, as Mr. Browne’s Fall/Winter 2025 proposal speaks for itself. What’s the point? You might ask, that fashion for some is about creativity, tailoring can also be fun as well as complex, and men need not be afraid to step out of their comfort zone, either by wearing traditional tweed trousers woven in England and in the iconic colours of the TB flag; pleated skirts of varying lengths and usually in grey; or short trouser suits, in classic herringbone or houndstooth fabrics, and embroidered with birds in satin stitch and gold bullion.
Leaving the birds aside and letting them fly away like the free beings they are, it is necessary to turn our attention to the impeccable and wide range of outerwear, dominated by an aggressive silhouette with pronounced shoulders, the patchwork technique, and innumerable details. Underneath, there are elongated jackets, short diamond cardigans, and modular silk gingham shirts with detachable collars and cuffs and inscriptions of the number “65”, when Thom was born. The preppy style is still present, but with a fresh and avant-garde touch that makes it special. And special or not, it’s not the footwear, but kinky and cool, and that’s thanks to the lace-up tights that were placed over the shoes, regardless if they were dinner jacket or lace-up shoes, or boots. The final touch to the line came in bags in the shape of briefcases or dogs.
Evan Mock at the end of the show shared a post on his Instagram stories in which he said: “Thom never disappoints”. And we couldn’t agree more.
Have a look at the Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2025 collection below:
