The University of Westminster MA Menswear 2024
by Alexandra Dimitriievych
On Tuesday, June 18th, the University of Westminster’s MA Menswear course, led by Anthony Rawson-Campbell, showcased the diverse visions of its students in a vibrant show. The runway came alive with movement and dance, creating a jubilant atmosphere that celebrated the creativity and innovation in menswear design. With notable alumni such as Robyn Lynch, San Kim, and Mateo Velazquez this year’s collections showcased technical excellence and explored deeply personal stories.
Kiddeo Deng’s collection was dedicated to the Chinese mafia culture of the 2000s that influenced his family and him growing up. Leopard print coats and tight short jackets in blood-red and black paired with skinny shirts, tops, and pants adorned with vibrant and shiny dragon motifs. Deng has added a rock-star aesthetic to every look by incorporating statement pieces like feather collars, skinny scarves, and pants chain in pearls.
Danyel Hoza created a highly technical sportswear collection with a focus on functionality. “Foresta d’Argento” or silver forest is a nod to foil printing that the designer used for knitwear, for some of the elements of headwear and to create a flag that one of the models was carrying at the catwalk. Loosely cut shirts and lightweight jackets paired with wide-leg trousers and skirts – all in upcycled nylons and cottons in predominantly black, grey, and deep green. Hoza balanced every look with tangerine hats and crossbody bags using climbing ropes instead of straps.
Karim Younis’s collection titled “Black Boys Cry Blue Tears” is a protest against the suppression of emotions and an exploration of the concept of masculinity. The streetwear collection, mainly in different shades of blue and black, consists of oversized and deconstructed hoodies and lightweight windstoppers combined with loose-fit sweatpants and shorts. The faces of some models were covered to signal oppression.
Pin Mirin’s “To the Land of the Soil” collection is a sophisticated blend of textures and innovative cuts. Long asymmetrically draped coats, wrapping the body in a cocoon-like manner combined with wide-legged light denim trousers and loose-cut shorts create a relaxed yet tailored silhouette. Natural fabrics and earthy tones are contrasted with a lighter, neutral palette adding to the overall elegance of the looks while chunky chain accessories add a touch of industrial chic.
Yang Cao’s collection is a playful and provocative fusion of masculine military uniforms that channel strength and authority, with sheer luxurious fabrics and ornate embroidery that add a feminine touch. The heavy leather coat, tracksuit jacket with asymmetric hemline, formal trousers, and military hats are combined with feminine corsets, stockings used as a scarf, airy fabrics, and subtly exposed skin. The collection featured humorous accessories like a red-lipped headpiece that was inspired by the English artist Sarah Lucas.
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