Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent menswear show for Summer 2026 is quiet but deliberate. It is about light, presence, and the space between things. Set in the Bourse de Commerce in Paris, the collection exists in a moment between places (part Paris, part Fire Island), where escape and elegance meet.
The inspiration is subtle. It pays tribute to artists who gave shape to desire, names like Stanton, Angus, and Ellis. And to Yves Saint Laurent himself, who in 1974 stepped away only to return with something new. Vaccarello does not look back in nostalgia. He moves forward.
The setting matches the mood. Instead of nighttime drama, the show unfolds in clear afternoon light. No filters, no artificial glow, just simplicity. The clothes follow. Silhouettes are precise but never heavy. Waists taper, shoulders extend, yet everything feels effortless. Fabrics like silk and nylon drift over the body. Colors are soft: sand, salt, pale ochre, dry moss, pool blue. Nothing shouts. Everything lingers.
At the center is clinamen, an installation by Céleste Boursier-Mougenot, a pool where porcelain bowls float, touch, and create their own quiet music. The clothes move the same way: natural, unhurried. Shorts echo those once worn by a young Yves, but this is not a reference. It is a return.
1974 was a pause. 2026 is what comes after. Not tribute, not memory, but a line that continues. The models do not perform. They simply are. And in that quiet presence, there is sensuality without show, elegance without need for words.
Watch the show below:
