Documenting a movement that’s already long begun, Kaye Sotomi has proved to be a beacon on a quest to inspect the issues of racism within society and the reactions to push against it. In 2018, Chop Chop London opened its first salon to defeat biases and discriminative causes across the hair industry. As there is a severe lack of afro hair training from an educational angle in Britain and far beyond, the founder was eager to address the discrimination with a message to amplify these concerns. In light of the global disruptions troubling BAME communities from a sociopolitical level, the salon chose to team up with The Black Curriculum in order to establish Black History in UK schools, designing a t-shirt of which 100% profits will be donated to the social enterprise. Sotomi argues, “This project is a continuation of this mission, but it is now heightened and so much more important to act now. The community we have grown at Chop-Chop is progressive and very diverse. My goal is to engage our customer base on these issues, to keep it in the consciousness all year round.” Refreshingly, the initiative isn’t damning collective efforts, as Kaye opens the conversation with, “I’m extremely proud. Many had to suffer and die for these freedoms. It is on our generation to push the agenda and progress further.” Unfortunately, afro hair has become a novelty of sorts and any news of their presence in spaces like white barbershops is publicized as revolutionary, when in fact, it should be normality. It’s a similar story in racism, ageism, and sexism across fashion and the creative landscape-at-large. But while this divide remains, any positive change should be emphasized. This is a tired conversation in the sense that it should already be over, but it’s empowering to see that we’re almost there. Society is stuck in old school thinking, perpetuating the problem with prejudice. “Generating economic equity is critical to creating a thriving socioeconomic black community,” highlights Sotomi. “I am working hard to create a company that offers an opportunity for generating equity.” A message of (likely) hope, then.

Congratulations, Kaye – You’ve managed to pioneer a little movement to incite change amidst a global crisis, a racial pandemic, and a social crunch at large. Are you proud?

Yes, I’m extremely proud! Inequality in the eyes of the law as well as in access to opportunities is arguably the most important social and economic issue we face today. The freedoms and progress on equality we enjoy today, didn’t happen by chance. Many had to suffer and die for these freedoms. It is on our generation to push the agenda and progress further.  

 

Could you expand on the project, reflecting on the intentions that brought you to it?

When I co-founded Chop Chop London in 2018, one of my primary goals was to end gender and racial discrimination which is a source of unconscious bias in the hair services industry. This project is a continuation of this mission, but it is now heightened and so much more important to act now! The community we have grown at Chop-Chop is progressive and very diverse. My goal is to engage our customer base on these issues, to keep it in the consciousness all year round, whilst also raising money for Black Curriculum through the sale of these t-shirts.   

Why did you choose The Black Curriculum in particular?

There are many amazing social enterprise organizations doing essential work on resolving issues surrounding black injustices and they all deserve donations. The Black Curriculum focuses on educating on black history and that is one of the most powerful tools we need to combat the issues around systemic and institutional racism. As a black African man raised and educated in the West, I was fortunate to have had the opportunity to study black political thought at university. This module helped re-enforce pride in my heritage, but also a duty of care to my community. Many Black Kids learn about black history from their parents and not at schools. Most importantly our white counterparts need this education, as the lack of understanding about our culture and history is one the principal causes of the ignorance and unconscious bias they carry. Black Curriculum’s mission is to push black history education into the national curriculum all year round and this would be truly amazing for future generations and the fight for a more equitable society. 

 

You’ve recently mentioned that in 2018, Chop Chop opened its first salon to grapple against racism and biases, due to a lack of representation in the system. Even though I find that as a remarkable practice, I feel this move should have always taken place. What do those t-shirts symbolize, and how do you feel that such initiative could perpetuate the conversation?

The T-shirt symbolizes a stance on the issue of BLM. My friends and I designed the t-shirt because we wanted to keep the story and the momentum going. We recognize that the protest on the streets will slow down and the media will move on to other topics. But we need to keep the conversation alive. The simple design and quality of the t-shirts mean that people can wear them all year round. Style is an expression of individuality and also who we are. When people wear our t-shirts, they are able to express where they stand and demonstrate solidarity on this every important issue, whilst maintain their aesthetic approach to fashion.   

Racism has left the brunt from Colonisation, depriving BAME communities from their socio-political rights on multiple fronts. As a CEO, how have you tackled the problem?

This is a major problem that needs to be attacked on multiple fronts. As CEO, the way I tackle these issues is: 

– By keeping my business alive with our values and mission ingrained in everyone that joins my business.

– By speaking out on the racial injustices within the industry I am a part of.

– By succeeding as one of the only few black CEOs in my sector and creating opportunities for other young black people to succeed. 

Generating economic equity is critical to creating a thriving socio/economic black community and I am working hard to create a company that offers opportunities for generating equity.  

 

What’s next in the pipeline?

-Start an academy with an inclusive approach hairdressing and barbering. 

-Offer out our space for evening events for educating on issues on inclusion and sustainability. 

-Hair recycling and opening up more Chops.

 

Photographer: James O’Doherty @jameso.photographer
Creative Direction: Emily Tighe @emilysusantighe and Kaye Sotomi @chopchoplondon
Stylist: Emily Tighe @emilysusantighe
Stylist’s Team: Tiziano Viticchie @tzn_v and Camille Tyberghein
Lead Hair Stylist: Lara Zee @larazeehair
Hair Stylist Team: Diana Dagbeto Michelle Hammond, Delian Delchev
Make up: Katy Jane @the_makeupservice
Talent: Annie Tagoe, Olympic Athlete @annietagoe
Models – Paris at Nevs, Seyi at Select, IIana at Select, Aaron Lesta
Brands: Hugo Boss, Goda, Nike, Timberland, Beyond Retro
Special thanks to Semple @semplelondon, Girl Next Door, Missemi, Nation, Nicola Harrowell, Biba at Select, Cali
White, Harry Kirton, Kemi @kemidanielle