Private Policy SS19 Backstage!
by Pierre M'Pele
PRIVATE POLICY is the offspring label of Haoran Li and Siying Qu who met while studying at Parsons in New-York. “We started collaborating at Parsons, where we met. Haoran studied womenswear with a focus on textiles. I studied menswear and focused on silhouette. We simply realised that we were very complementary,” said Qu.
The duo showcased their Spring/Summer 2019 collection in London, a first European outing with the help of GQ China. From start to finish, PRIVATE POLICY was powerful, full of attitude, and brilliantly executed. Proud of their Asian culture, but with an eye opened to the world, the designer duo dubbed their collection “Breaking The Looking Glass” – a clin d’oeil to the Metropolitan Museum’s 2015 exhibition “China: Looking Through The Looking Glass”.
Li and Qu swiftly hit the bullseye. It was a rencontre between Eastern and Western subcultures. Imagine a punk rock band dressed in BDSM clothing hosting a party in the Forbidden City. One of the best pieces, a black changshan – the traditional Chinese dress worn by men – had spikes on its collar. There was also a crimson biker jacket and Chaps ensemble that exuded naughtiness. Now imagine youngsters wearing 90s Grunge clothing while parading the Great Wall of China. There was a selection of viable items such as plaid haori jackets and deconstructed bomber jackets with Mandarin buttons. The storytelling was distinct: the Asian youth in Western countries is more complex than the image some people do project on them – they’re not all brilliant mathematicians crunching numbers at MIT. “There are so many stereotypes when it comes to Asians, and we wanted to show a different image of Asian youth in Western countries,” explained Qu. “We looked at our Asian friends in New-York and they love punk music, some enjoy bondage, others love hip-hop,” she continued.
Indeed, the duo successfully addressed the idea that cultures are meant to change, to intertwine, and thus evolving into new ones. It’s rare to meet young designers with such a sense of both creative and commercial readiness. PRIVATE POLICY is stock internationally across three continents, and the UK retail landscape should not stay behind. PRIVATE POLICY is worth investing in for in the future seems bright for this burgeoning label.
Photos by Elliott Morgan in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Paria Farzaneh Spring/Summer 2019
STREETSTYLE | London Fashion Week Men’s SS19 – Part 2
Inspired by the androgynous beauty and seductive allure of American actor Joe Dallessandro, Valette Studio’s new collection is an ode to sartorial freedom and emancipation, underlining playfulness and personality as opposed to stereotypes, rules and uniformity.
DAVID TLALE SS23 collection includes adaptions of feminine features into the “male” silhouette, offering textures commonly associated with womenswear.
Craig Green’s men have identified a distant new summit to ascend, obscured far from view, but somehow ever present.
For the SS23 studio collection, Henrik Vibskov investigates the elements of bridges – a construction born from the hands of humans, allowing the feet to touch where only birds used to inhabit.
SANKUANZ SS23 continues the speculative exploration of life and death from its last season, realizing deep integration of street style and high fashion in multiple ways.
For this collection, Ernest W. Baker wanted to reference Spring 2020: something familiar and comfortable, the sense of innocence, naivety – an impression of sheltering.
Through this men’s line, Kim has endeavored to explore the importance of private spheres and how they provide inspiration and guidance in the realm of creativity.
Davi revives the tradition and gives its contemporary traveler that modern and lively twist that pervades the collections designed by Davide Marello.
Take a look at Dior Men Spring/Summer 2023 backstage, captured by the lens of Cole Fawcett during Paris Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Colm Dillane staged his newest collection with a performance-art piece that merged fashion, art, and audience participation.
young n sang unveiled the lookbook for its “Merman” collection, captured by the lens of Choi Na Rang.
For the SS23 collection and Kaczmarek’s fourth collection for the brand, the designer continues to take his inspiration from the world of the Parisian city.
The Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection of Acne Studios celebrates the joy of dressing up with a hint of subversion, skewing traditional formal dress codes for a modern, idiosyncratic take on occasionwear.
This season Ouest Paris dreams of Californian beaches, warm nights and space travel.
Inspired by a day spent gallery hopping around London on the hottest day of the year, Paul Smith’s SS23 men’s presentation in Paris revisits the 1980s art scene to offer a refined take on classic menswear silhouettes.
Simultaneously introducing two things that contradict each other as an homage to the duality of the whole; an embrace of the paradox.
The collection itself was conceived and created by the Louis Vuitton Prêt-à-Porter Homme studio: a constantly evolving ecosystem of creative minds who shared long working days since 2018 with Virgil Abloh and expanded during his eight seasons of artistic direction.
Honor The Gift’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection redefines workwear inspired by the imprint of overlooked Black Labor of the 1800s.
On Thursday, June 23, Rick Owens showcased his SS23 collection, “Edfu,” after the Egyptian temple.
Givenchy unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week.
The collection features curved and straight folds in the uniformly pleated fabric, finished with twisting and layering garment constructions.
The collection is a reaction to recent times. A contribution to the growing call to embrace connection – to lean into openness.
