Ó Sapateia, meu bem,
Ai torna a sapatear,
Uma volta não é nada,
Outra volta vamos dar.” – Sapateia, Açores


I was listening to the popular Portuguese ballad (in the version sung by the folk band Maré da Saudade) waiting for the flight that would have taken me back to Italy after the four (intense) days at the Portugal Fashion in Porto: I got excited. I condensed the feelings of that long weekend into a song: nostalgic and sincere, traditional and modern.

These four adjectives help me to “tell” the fashion of this country that goes (with evolved quietness) beyond the logic of the market and the criteria of homologation while confirming the vocation of a Paradise Lost.

And so, decidedly mainstream brands alternate with other ones, more refined and experimental (less aware, of course, and therefore interesting).

As usual, together with the team, I have chosen the eight names that (in our opinion) have characterized this forty-fifth edition.

Thanks to all the people I met (organizers, designers, insiders, new friends)…



Estelita Mendoça

The made in Porto designer reinforces the well-tried dichotomy that characterizes his style: the one between art and fashion.

His SS20 is delicate and light, urban and settled. The black color is the trait d’union between pastel shades and postmodern prints. It is a mature, direct collection, with no (or almost no) frills.


Inês Torcato

It’s sexy, undoubtedly. The young designer’s men parade brazenly wearing evanescent garments. Denim alternates with precious fabrics (such as silk, for example). It is a sartorial and at the same time simple Spring/Summer in which small details are a characterizing but never an intrusive element of a sensual collection but with a certain sophistication.


David Catalán

Fun and sporty: the collection presented by the David Catalán brand gives a nod to the more celebrated 90s, those closely connected to the youth culture.

His Bayside School boys are the offspring of a multi-ethnic society, pop and secretly grunge (the use of sunglasses as a tribute to Kurt Cobain speaks volumes).

T-shirts and shorts, tracksuits and cardigans are the must-have of the season.



The winner of FASHIONCLASH 2016 presents a meticulous, clean, essential collection. Sharp lines and contemporary cuts characterize comfortable garments designed for an urban explorer, young and determined. It is a Pantone collection in which the mix of tones is expertly measured.


Miguel Vieira

As always, the best known to the international audience Portuguese brand presents a masculine collection, exquisitely played on the ground of sartorial tradition. The prints, floral, determine the taste. The volumes, over, enrich the contours. The colors, pastel, lighten the lines.

It is a classic, contextualized collection.


Hugo Costa

Hugo Costa presents a musical collection; musical in the harmony of the composition.

His SS20 is streetwear (of the night) by nature and progressivist progressive. Strong garments for aware young people, all rave parties-addicted and techno music lovers.

Solid geometries help a game of non-trivial overlays. The colors are acid and the technical fabrics amplify their natural “fluorescence”.


Alexandra Moura

If you blended underground trends and ethnic influences with a certain vigor, the SS20 collection presented by the Lisbon designer would emerge. It is a beautiful, intense, well-made experiment. The garments, multitasking, are practical and in basic colors. The attention is captured by the details that give strength to this impeccable and modern SS20.

It is a declaration of love for her homeland and a powerful message to the rest of the world (of fashion): “I am there!”


Maria Gambina

It is a summer collection that brings with itself the sunny light-heartedness of that season. The one presented by Maria Gambina (who along with Alexandra Moura and Miguel Vieira represents the hard-core of the Portuguese fashion) is a vacation SS, free from the rigid rules of formal clothing. Sincere garments and relaxed lines are the principle of that principle that defeats boredom: positive thinking.