Natasha Zinko Spring/Summer 2023
by Caroline Brown
Ukrainian-born designer, Natasha Zinko presented her Menswear Spring/Summer 2023 collection “Défilé” in a yellow-lit school gym. From oversized utilitarian boots with cargo pockets to an angel in white leather, this collection is inspired by the haphazard urgency of evacuation and the defiant hope of the Ukrainian people. Cherished garments of leather and traditional Ukrainian embroidery are reimagined to create a sense of security and the comfort that “everything is going to be alright.” Soft blue, white, and pink deconstructed bustiers, denim patchwork and nightgowns held together with safety pins declare “I am here and I will not be silenced.”
While the floral patterns and embroidery pay homage to her hometown of Odessa, the punk spirit of the collection is distinctively British. Black leather, acid-washed denim, and spiked shoes bring in the defiance she has been inspired by from the many refugees in London who now work in her workshop. Next steps for Zinko? She hopes to open a store in London that will also showcase Ukrainian designers. “The world is a smaller place and we should be kind to one another”.
This belief is not only evident in her hosting of interns and refugees, but also in her casting for the show. Gender- fluidity, size inclusivity, and models from all nations walked the court. “I don’t see size, color, or origin, I see people happy to be in the clothes.” She ended the show by joining the models in a stoic pose on the court. “I felt that, specifically for this collection” her most personal to date, “it was important that I be with the models as one.”
Photos by Sebastian Pielles @piellesshots
Our Legacy Spring/Summer 2023
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK SS23 Backstage!
Inspired by the androgynous beauty and seductive allure of American actor Joe Dallessandro, Valette Studio’s new collection is an ode to sartorial freedom and emancipation, underlining playfulness and personality as opposed to stereotypes, rules and uniformity.
DAVID TLALE SS23 collection includes adaptions of feminine features into the “male” silhouette, offering textures commonly associated with womenswear.
Craig Green’s men have identified a distant new summit to ascend, obscured far from view, but somehow ever present.
For the SS23 studio collection, Henrik Vibskov investigates the elements of bridges – a construction born from the hands of humans, allowing the feet to touch where only birds used to inhabit.
SANKUANZ SS23 continues the speculative exploration of life and death from its last season, realizing deep integration of street style and high fashion in multiple ways.
For this collection, Ernest W. Baker wanted to reference Spring 2020: something familiar and comfortable, the sense of innocence, naivety – an impression of sheltering.
Through this men’s line, Kim has endeavored to explore the importance of private spheres and how they provide inspiration and guidance in the realm of creativity.
Davi revives the tradition and gives its contemporary traveler that modern and lively twist that pervades the collections designed by Davide Marello.
Take a look at Dior Men Spring/Summer 2023 backstage, captured by the lens of Cole Fawcett during Paris Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Colm Dillane staged his newest collection with a performance-art piece that merged fashion, art, and audience participation.
young n sang unveiled the lookbook for its “Merman” collection, captured by the lens of Choi Na Rang.
For the SS23 collection and Kaczmarek’s fourth collection for the brand, the designer continues to take his inspiration from the world of the Parisian city.
The Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection of Acne Studios celebrates the joy of dressing up with a hint of subversion, skewing traditional formal dress codes for a modern, idiosyncratic take on occasionwear.
This season Ouest Paris dreams of Californian beaches, warm nights and space travel.
Inspired by a day spent gallery hopping around London on the hottest day of the year, Paul Smith’s SS23 men’s presentation in Paris revisits the 1980s art scene to offer a refined take on classic menswear silhouettes.
Simultaneously introducing two things that contradict each other as an homage to the duality of the whole; an embrace of the paradox.
The collection itself was conceived and created by the Louis Vuitton Prêt-à-Porter Homme studio: a constantly evolving ecosystem of creative minds who shared long working days since 2018 with Virgil Abloh and expanded during his eight seasons of artistic direction.
Honor The Gift’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection redefines workwear inspired by the imprint of overlooked Black Labor of the 1800s.
On Thursday, June 23, Rick Owens showcased his SS23 collection, “Edfu,” after the Egyptian temple.
Givenchy unveiled its Spring/Summer 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week.
The collection features curved and straight folds in the uniformly pleated fabric, finished with twisting and layering garment constructions.
The collection is a reaction to recent times. A contribution to the growing call to embrace connection – to lean into openness.
