Between optical and brocade, the jacket is the protagonist on the runaways!
Sophisticated, impeccable, opulent… Eccentric, shameless, colored. Whatever his style, the man of the 2012/ 13 A/W knows how to attract attention! “There is only one thing in the world worse than being talked about: the not being talked about,” wrote Oscar Wilde in The Picture of Dorian Gray and Frida Giannini seems to have caught the full message…
Gucci Fall/Winter 2012
That of Gucci is a nostalgic aristocratic of the early XXth century. Lover of luxury, devoted to the excesses,
protagonist of a new decadent society! He wears clothes made of brocade and double-breasted in velvet.
Trenches in his wardrobe, furs and silk scarves… The colors? Intense and enveloping… Black, midnight blue,
burgundy, bottle green, beige.
Dolce&Gabbana Fall/Winter 2012
The coat is confirmed as a must-have of the season and conquers the Milanese runaways. The play with the
tradition by shaping the future, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce. Of a Sicilian memory, fantastically
tailored coats and jackets are enriched by the golden embroidery baroque details… The cloak, unstructured,
becomes the symbol of a timeless elegance! Pinstripes, Prince of Wales and barbed, are the fabrics chosen
for a collection elevated to a symbol of a new Risorgimento, authentically Made in Italy!
Prada Fall/Winter 2012
Ironic and unabashedly elegant. The man of Miuccia Prada captures the essence of the 40s’ allure. Still
jackets in his closet… Lots and lots! He loves fantasies and wears with nonchalance magnificent outerwears
in printed silk. Two essential accessories: red or black-lens-round sunglasses and lace-shoes decorated with
flowers and geometric patterns… How can we not desire them if then they are shown off, among others, by
Tim Roth, Adrien Brody, Willem Defoe and Gary Oldman: talented actors and models of exception!
Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2012
References to the Cinema World also in the Parisian collection of the imaginative Thom Browne. Let’s
change the tune! His is a grotesque American-teen … a fetish-addicted who winks his eye at glamour… a
chic Frankenstein… an English gentleman with a punk soul! He wears studs and bondage masks. Oversized
sweaters and exaggerated-volume-suits. Pinks and mint-greens alternate with grays and blacks. The
pinstripes in geometric patterns!
Comme des Garçons Fall/Winter 2012
And on the shapes geometry Rei Kawakubo builds the amazing outfits for the Comme des Garçons man.
On the runaway, Emo of the new generation move slowly, mesmerized by the Thick Pigeon’s music…
Amish felt hats and bow-neckties are the eccentric Madame La Veste’s companions. Declined in many
versions. Avant-gardist. Unstructured. Printed with flowers or white polka dots, the jacket is the main
actress! Cashmere and angora the materials used and for the foot a fancy short contrast sock!
Dior Fall/Winter 2012
The military rigor of Kris Van Assache for Dior HOMME drags us in the real world! High-ranking officers
march one behind the other… Admirals, generals, colonels! On their head, simple peaked caps. The trousers’
line is comfortable while more structured are the coats, often padded or lined with soft fur. The green, the
sand and the gray take us on a truculent battlefield… They are brave men, who do not give up combat boots
and who to protect themselves from the cold choose warm but precious fabrics: wool, sheepskin, tweed,
boiled wool and even cashmere!
J.W. Anderson Fall/Winter 2012
Jeremy Scott Fall/Winter 2012
In London instead J.W. Anderson overwhelms us with its apocalyptic Pop Art! His is a young and colored
fashion which hits off the more classic sporty-wear: that for the mountain! A modern daring explorer,
searching for the Abominable Snowman, the Anderson’s man is not afraid to take risks. He alternates the
suits’ optical patterns with matelassé bomber jackets… The pants’ technical fabrics (a must, the side-zip)
with inlaid pullovers. He overlaps, creates, invents new volumes… He play with colors and materials giving
rise to a series of futuristic look. The iconic pieces? The boots with vulcanized sole and the anti-rain hat with
ear flaps: unique!
And could just New York not to celebrate the Warhol’s genius? And so, be Pop Art… also for Jeremy
Scott! Inspiration and creativity: the keywords! Undisputed popular icons of our time, they are the simpsonian
cartoon characters and the social-network emoticons to be transformed and elevated to undisputed impact
clothing. Scott risks and does well… He combines classic fabrics (cotton, wool, jersey) with unusual
materials (PVC, nylon, latex). Soft and strong colors. They could not miss his acid-green and orange Adidas
sneakers: an amazing must-have!
Duckie Brown Fall/Winter 2012
Another story for Duckie Brown … The soft and drooping lines of its items capture the most sincere essence
of the oversize… Pijama-style for the chequered suits. Wool cardigan over wide pants… Neutral colors and
suede gloves because, the designer knows it, you can be elegant and stay relaxed at the same time!
Milan, Paris, London, New York. A journey through the fashion capitals to discover the latest trends!
A word of advice? You who want to be really trendy, buy a crocodile bag… Is a clutch bag or a kitbag, it
doesn’t matter… The important thing is that you have it!
