We don’t know what it is about Marine Serre‘s show, but it always causes a frenzy in the French capital. Young people dream of attending her show. And if we add to this the fact that the brand was giving away no more and no less than a thousand invitations, you can get an idea of what happened. Chaos unleashed at fashion week = Fashion Drama.

It was worth the hour-long wait until the show started. The imposing volumes of the Grande Halle de La Villette (the chosen location) added to the intensity, partly because of the poetic, almost mystical atmosphere. The message was clear.

As the sun streaked across space, it was almost impossible not to think about the fast-moving timeline in which we find ourselves trapped, forced to keep up with the unsustainable rhythms of our daily lives that separate us from both ourselves and others. These disconnections have been precipitated as well as other disasters such as climate change.

Returning to the location and its corresponding set, it was accompanied by a trio of oppressively tall towers, constructed of tightly packed abandoned clothing, echoing our senseless destruction of this planet. But let’s take a step back and complete the full picture. In this way, we can imagine the present and future tragedies, which unfortunately continue to occur, and glimpse reasons for optimism.

Optimism is something that every person should have, even if we know in our instinct that something is wrong. You always have to trust yourself and visualize what you want or where you want to go. In this world, there is a bit of everything, but in the Serre universe there is a predominance of brave souls willing to face reality, and above all willing to take risks and fight for victory, even if they fall a few times along the way. This is a question of attitude, of falling and getting up again in a second, without any shame whatsoever.

Within this model of a future dystopia, we could also imagine that today’s guests, huddled closely inside this shelter of tomorrow – our nascent shelter – could join forces to fight together, committed and allied to improve society.

The house Marine Serre with its Autumn/Winter 23 collection explores alternative perspectives and visions that will transform the fashion industry. This is one of the reasons why the show was open to the public and the 1000 tickets we mentioned at the beginning were made available to anyone who wanted them. This has been a detail to point out on the part of the designer, as she is aware that the fashion industry is not only made up of those attending a fashion show but also of the clients and admirers of the brand, who the end of the day are the ones who make it possible for the brand to continue presenting collections, thanks to the money they invest in the company.

The proposal presented was made up of five families that make up the Rising Shelter collection, based on the linked themes of commitment, rebellion, and transformation. The first grouping is drawn from a small selection taken from the overwhelming number of cream, white and beige tote bags that are now flooding our universe and will soon be seen by the young people who worship Marine. It is estimated that each “planet-friendly” cotton bag must be used 20,000 times to offset the global impact of its production or 54 years of daily use. This bag will be worn with elongated, casual, and often unisex designs (bowling shirts, coats, trucker jackets, skirts, and oversized bedspreads).

Next, the catwalk takes the house’s familiar archetypes, and introduces new creations designed from reclaimed grey and black denim, homewear, T-shirts, and leather, as well as the now iconic M.S. moiré, with British designs made from yarns created from recycled barbecue and fishing nets. All in the unmistakable motocross colors and prints, reused in leather accessories and couture creations. A softer tone of voice is evident this season, with jeans adorned with a faded version of the house’s familiar moon, sunrise, and sunset-inspired T-shirt designs and a generally more elongated and refined silhouette throughout the collection.

Finishing and rounding off the collection is the women’s grouping of black tailoring designs accented with contrasting topstitching.

Check out the collection below: