For his first runway show outside of Paris, Ludovic de Saint Sernin chose New York City as the backdrop for his Fall/Winter 2024 collection. The designer, who is known for his sensual and refined aesthetic, wanted to honor one of his biggest influences: the legendary photographer Robert Mapplethorpe.

The collection, which was created in partnership with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation, features select images from the artist’s archive, as well as silhouettes inspired by the characters he captured. From delicate flowers to dark leather, the collection explores the contrast between beauty and the devil.

The show also marked the debut of Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s fine jewelry line, which was made in collaboration with the Spanish jewelry house TOUS. The pieces, which include earrings, necklaces, and rings, complement the clothes with their subtle elegance and craftsmanship.

The runway was divided into two parts, reflecting the dual nature of Mapplethorpe’s work. The first part showcased the softer side, with hand-cut velvet and lacquered appliqués of flowers on sheer cotton organdy garments. The second part revealed the darker side, with leather harnesses, pants, and masks, as well as metal meshwork dresses with crystals. The models also carried white brass horns, a nod to Mapplethorpe’s iconic portrait of Frank Diaz.

The collection was a stunning homage to Mapplethorpe, as well as a celebration of Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s own vision. The designer said: “In my own fantasy, this was a collaboration with him. I imagined he was still alive today, and that we were creating silhouettes that he would want to photograph; clothes that he would love, and that feel as much him as they do me.”

Check it out below: