Louis Gabriel Nouchi Fall/Winter 2024
by Anna Barr
2023 ANDAM winner Louis Gabriel Nouchi presented his Fall/Winter 2024/25 collection in Paris at the former telephone exchange. The Art Deco building has been stripped bare showing its bones and iron grilles that once made it a novel to see. Each season LGN pays tribute to a book or writer, and this season he has found his inspiration on the pages of Guy de Maupassant’s “Bel Ami” which follows the protagonist as he rises from poverty to wealth through manipulation and seduction of women.
The darker aspects of social climbing in the book can very much be found today, and we can’t turn a blind eye to the role that fashion has always played in it. Sensual black is prevailing as the color of the 19th-century bourgeoisie is reexamined with a modern eye. While the collection reflects on the male ambition, the symbols of opulence, and their translation into the codes of men’s fashion, we also experience the female counterpart with the introduction of womenswear, a first for LGN, not shying away from his signature tailoring as he faithfully translates the proportions and functionality of LGN’s masculine wardrobe (such as men sized pockets), adjusted for the female form opening a new exploration into the inherent sensuality of all bodies.
The 19th-century aesthetics from the era of “Bel Ami” are translated into long, voluminous coats resembling capes. Silk ties drape over supple jacquard jacket collars or a silk jersey turtleneck. Fluid and see-through homewear pieces harken back to the intimacy and luxury of glamourous receptions. LGN continues to push innovation with his partnership with ECCO LEATHER while the fabrics in the collection were developed by the LGN studio to evoke the opulence and richness of fur. In collaboration with La Monnaie de Paris, LGN is creating a special coin. Transformed into jewelry, it plays with the gestures and the symbols surrounding money in Western cultures: a lucky penny placed in the shoes or between fingers, or French idioms, with the coins fringed bracelets evoking “having the pockets full “.
Over the seasons, LGN’s casting has been strong and honest. Bringing alive the authenticity of who lives in the clothes. Alongside professional models, customers and friends walk the show, highlighting a different, real, and desirable vision of male bodies.
Check out the collection below:
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