It is said that reading is the exercise that every mind needs. This action, in addition to being healing, has a special meaning for some, as in the case of Louis Gabriel Nouchi, who has reflected the passion he feels for it in his latest collection.
We could affirm, without any modesty whatsoever, that the designer has paid it a proper tribute, one of those that is hardly ever done anymore. Let’s remember that Louis, when creating a proposal, is usually inspired by a book or a writer who has inscribed their vision on the world. “American Psycho” by Bret Easton Ellis was the book chosen on this occasion.
LGN’s FW23 perfectly reflects the vibrations received from this work and reflects on toxic masculinity, which to some extent can be seen as a kind of violence that surrounds us. But in this line violence has no place, but is transformed into strength and questions the norms of society, showing different types of male bodies that exude sensuality. All bodies are valid and should have a place in any type of scenario, including fashion and catwalks. And so it has happened, that they have joined the rest of the models providing a different, real and desirable vision of men. A fundamental value for Nouchi that echoes social inclusivity.
Going back to the literary work we were talking about, Louis raises a question: How does Patrick Bateman, the protagonist of the book, remain relevant? Difficult to answer, but sometimes it happens. This is captured to some extent in the sharp masculine line that some of the pieces have (inspired by businessmen’s suits of the 1980s), the fitted jackets, the narrow waist, or the new design of draped shirts and dresses, reminiscent of women’s evening gowns, like the cellophane Patrick used to wrap his victims in. We imagine that being wrapped in cellophane they would not be comfortable at all, so LGN has created a series of activewear garments, treated with the same refinement as the evening gowns, to make them feel comfortable and sensual at the same time.
Leather, the star material of the season, makes its debut for the brand in the form of ECCO LEATHER. The transparent leather inspired by Bareman’s killer coat uses a new chemical-free tanning technique, like a parchment. And parchment goes from leather to mohair, also inspired by the 80s, adding textures to iconic pieces such as jogging trousers, jumpers, and tank tops.
These fabrics fit perfectly with the color palette, which evokes both sensuality and danger. Black, white, blood red, or city banker blue predominate. And if we’re talking about bankers, you’re bound to wish them something not so good (you know what we mean), hence the collection’s print is based on blood splatter on clothing, a reminder of violence, woven in a tonal black satin jacquard.
Check out the collection below:
