Kris Van Assche Fall/Winter 2015
by Adriano Batista
Kris Van Assche unveiled his Fall/Winter 2015 collection during Paris Fashion Week.
“For this season I had in mind the image of an urban soldier,” explains Kris Van Assche. “It is fundamentally an urban collection because I like suits, active wear and active characters. This time, I wanted the sporting element that I frequently return to, to be almost military in feel. I could imagine a guy on a bike in New York risking life and limb – a sort of city warrior. I wanted a look that felt streamlined rather than relaxed: energetic, fast, precise. In many ways it is an idea of sportswear meeting the New Wave; technical clothes with an aggressive, post-punk tailored attitude.”
In his twenty-first show and collection under his own name, Kris Van Assche explores twenty-first century preoccupations of the city and speed, with masculine dress for a new breed of urban warrior.
Here, the slim-fit grey suit transforms into a hybrid, streamlined cycling outfit, layered over the bicycle jersey, gathered at the ankles or calves. Mixed with the military motif of camouflage, blown up, appliqued and made to stand out in the cityscape rather than blend in, the emphasis is on dynamism and protection.
Military motifs are contrasted against symbols of the city; uniform ruching is transposed to tailoring, frequently gathering backs of sleeves and trousers; technical nylon parkas, trimmed in frost fox fur, are layered over hyper-real chalk stripe, pinstripe wools; intricate, contrasting stitch knits become a new kind of textured camouflage; military Melton wools form a new take on the great coat with technical zips and Velcro fastenings.
Youthful codes of rebellion are replaced by an adult understanding of them, for one, the clichéd New Wave colours of black and red are a vivid reminder of the past made present – and there is always truth in a cliché. At the same time, an eighties New Wave attitude is contrasted against contemporary technical sportswear.
“I liked the idea that this guy would wear sportswear during the day, but would listen to New Wave during the evening,” says Kris Van Assche. “That these fragments of the past, the things you grow up with, would be brought into the future and guide the direction you want to travel in.”
Yohji Yamamoto FW15 Backstage!
JUUN.J Fall/Winter 2015
Somewhere between long flights and the first set, the baggage begins to loosen its grip.
The fourth chapter of dunhill’s Heritage in Motion series turns to the Driving Jacket, a modern expression of the leather garments Alfred Dunhill developed for the earliest motorists.
Actor William Franklyn-Miller photographed by Michiel Meewis and styled by Gregory Russill, for the cover story of Fucking Young!’s TRANSPARENCY issue.
Cui Jiahao photographed by Mercury Studio and styled by Itsuki, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Saint Laurent Rive Droite Beijing presents a photography exhibition by Chinese artist No.223 (Lin Zhipeng), curated by Anthony Vaccarello, on view from 6 August to 11 September in celebration of Qixi.
Stone Island has launched The Calm and the Chaos, a new creative project that examines the hardcore and metalcore scenes through the communities that have kept them alive across generations.
Pantalon and designer Mikael Muradian have teamed up on a collaboration that started the way the best ones do: by chance on the streets of New York.
Moncler has introduced the CityTrek, a sneaker that draws on vintage trail designs and the brand’s outdoor expertise, reimagined for the city.
Barry Brandon, founder of ICONIQA, discusses queer community building, nightlife as activism, the limits of allyship, and creating spaces of radical self-expression in Barcelona and beyond.
Polo Club has unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026 collection, Classic Beats, built around the idea that some things never go out of style.
PUMA has introduced a new version of the Suede, this time with an all-over dot print that plays with one of pop culture’s most enduring motifs.
Ivan Ugrin photographed by Gabriel Vorbon and styled by Joel Pardo, for the coverstory of Fucking Young!’s TRANSPARENCY issue.
The collection reinterprets archival pieces through a contemporary lens, pulling from workwear and the outdoors while balancing functionality with a sharper edge.
Le Labo has introduced SHIU 25, a new fragrance created for Beijing, joining the City Exclusive Collection that pays tribute to the cities the brand calls home.
Few artists capture the tension between euphoria and vulnerability quite like Tsatsamis. We spoke with the London musician about Tsycophant, queer identity and embracing contradiction as a creative force.
Reebok has unveiled the next chapter of its global Classics platform, Born Classic. Worn for Life., with a new seasonal campaign starring Karol G.
Patta and Lacoste have teamed up on People’s Choice, a project that lets the community decide which archival Lacoste tracksuit gets brought back to life.
Luxury fashion’s obsession with hospitality isn’t slowing down. The latest label turning your daily flat white into a branded experience is KARL LAGERFELD, which has just opened its very first café in Amsterdam. Sitting next to the… »
We spoke with Claudio Portalo about the street as both material and metaphor, the vulnerability of creating in public, the transformative power of process, and why art should remain a space for encounter, friction and play.
Ami Paris is celebrating its 15th anniversary with a message of gratitude and a capsule collection that honours the values the brand was built on.
Nike has introduced Studio Fleece, a unified system of activewear built around the idea of the everyday athlete’s uniform.
The album was written and produced by Grande and ILYA, with Max Martin contributing as co-writer and producer on three tracks.
Eli Russell Linnetz expands ERL with Sailing, a collection of sun-faded textures, relaxed tailoring and effortless American style.
Murphy and Matt photographed by Zhu Leisan and styled by Wen, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Bershka and Volcom have released a new capsule collection inspired by the spirit of board culture, combining attitude with functionality across a range of apparel and accessories.
Argentine director Alexan travelled to Barcelona to shoot Bestias, a new film that explores a more fragile and sensitive masculinity, beautiful but at the same time empathetic and raw.
Palm Angels has unveiled its Fall/Winter 2026 campaign, Lost Frames, shot by Sharna Osbourne and Van Khokhlov inside a historic theatre.
Burberry and the V&A have announced The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon, a free exhibition at V&A South Kensington tracing the history of the Burberry trench coat, coinciding with the house’s 170th anniversary.
Musician David Lerner photographed by Adi Admoni, in an exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
Carhartt WIP has released a city-exclusive capsule for Madrid, taking the cat as its central symbol, a nod to the animal’s connection to the city’s identity.
