With Hiroaki Sueyasu’s direction, the KIDILL Fall/Winter 2025 collection is inspired by the youth in Harajuku, Tokyo, during the late 90s and early 2000s. This was a place where young people freely expressed themselves, with no fear of breaking the rules, and fashion had become a playground to absorb all types of cultures. With the reimagining of vintage styles in new ways, It became a dream place where creativity was the main attraction, accompanied by a blend of music and fashion. Sueyasu says he sees the essence of individuality and self-expression of Harajuku being shown by publications like “TUNE” and “FRUiTS”.
Drums were heard as guests entered the fashion show, in a warehouse-like big room, fully immersing everyone into the cool and free vibe of Harajuku. The models had bold confidence, and drums kept the ears in the space KIDILL created for us. Every look had a mix of playful colors, graphics, and textures, showing the collaboration with “A STORE ROBOT”, a legendary Harajuku store of punk garments, and close ties with Vivienne Westwood. Another layer is added through the collaboration with Brett Westfall, the Los Angeles-based artist known for his passion for music and art. Sueyasu explored what it means to be authentic in our current world in his latest collection.
We met with Hiroaki Sueyasu to tell us about this collection that navigates the designer’s experience in Tokyo and London, using bold colors, stitching contrasts, and camouflage patterns. There’s inspiration drawn from rave and punk aesthetics, cyberpunk elements that give a futuristic feel, and the metallic coatings that show the dynamic energy of Harajuku.
Which is the main theme of the KIDILL FW25 collection?
The main theme is “FORMAL ANARCHIST”. I straighten my collar to convey Tokyo’s punk to the modern era. Formal shows a proper attitude and an aesthetic. When connected to the word “anarchist”, it signifies a spiritual punk. Formality and anarchism—like a coined expression—that conveys the essence of punk to the modern age.
Your brand is known for using deconstruction, vintage pieces and DIY elements, how does this new presentation work with this approach and which techniques were used?
The original pattern-making, mix with DIY elements like hand-knitting, tin patches, and safety pins, I stuck to my usual approach—it’s part of KIDILL’s signature style. I’ve been consistently incorporating these elements and by mixing with original fake fur and printed fabrics, it gave a fresh look on the DIY spirit.
Which music genres or artists helped you build, and influenced, the designs presented in this collection?
The main focus is on the punk culture born in the 1970s’ London, with an emphasis on early punk from the 70’s and 80’s. It incorporates the atmosphere of 2025, modern clothing silhouettes, and the current mood, creating a mixed and updated style. My inspiration always come from the 70’s punk movement that originated in England.
KIDILL regularly blends Tokyo street style with London’s punk influence. How does the FW25 collection balance these cultures?
Seditionaries — early London punk as a keyword, this style also incorporates the mid-to-late 1990s Tokyo vibe seen in TUNE, FRUiTS, and street culture. It draws from Tokyo’s free-spirited mood, blending cyber elements with the classic punk aesthetic—like mix the punk leather jackets with the Tokyo street style. The result is a fusion of Tokyo and London, merging their energies into a unique and dynamic expression.
Which accessories were you most excited about presenting this season, which stood out the most to you?
I think all the accessories for this season. Like hats, in particular, they all have a strong eye catch. Accessories play a key role in styling because they help to create and define the overall mood.
In previous presentations, you have used bold graphics and imagery. What motifs and visual themes can we see in the FW25 lineup, and what are the meanings behind them?
Besides the keyword Seditionaries, I also did a collaboration with contemporary artist Brett Westfall this season, a current Los Angeles-based artist. While punk remains a core influence, it’s not limited to that—it’s about working with individuals who embody a rebellious spirit. I always love to collaborate with artists who are making an impact today, ensuring the relevance of our work in the present. Capturing the current mood is essential, so it’s not just about redoing the past, but creating something really fresh by working with people who represent today’s creative energy.
KIDILL’s designs often reference punk subcultures, and it’s known that Jamie Reid was your first starting point for past collections, can you share if the FW25 collection continues with this inspiration, and if so, which elements have influenced it?
I will continue to have Jamie Reid as my inspiration as always. While rooted in punk culture, subcultures, youth culture, music, and art. I’m aware that to not stray beyond those boundaries. And this time I’m adding a touch of cyberpunk elements, putting all the things that I admire and respect.
How does the FW25 collection represent the brand’s evolution, and what direction do you see KIDILL going towards in the following season?
I want to create a community that, similar to how punk bands in the past published zines or flyers. Nowadays, we have modern tools like social media, YouTube, Threads, and X. I see KIDILL as more than just a brand—it’s a culture. All the people who have the same aesthetic, including customers who already support us, journalists who are interested in my brand, like Fucking Young! who always features my work and share the same passion. I aim to develop a platform or media that deepens their connection to the brand and makes them involve even more.
Finally, what does “Fucking Young!” mean to you?
Fucking Young! for me, it’s the media that embraces youth culture, music, art, and a sense of openness. While fashion might be seen as part of the luxury world, Fucking Young! makes it clear that fashion is much deeper than that. It conveys the idea that fashion is a powerful, expressive form of art. You always give chances and raise voice to help those niche brands, young designers who put their hearts into their works, and brands with genuine spirits, KIDILL is also one of them. You give voice to the true feelings and energies behind these brands, and that’s what makes you so important and special for me.
Check out the collection below: