Kenzo Fall/Winter 2025
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
Finally, Paris and its respective fashion week have welcomed the world of colour – as the absence of it usually dominates most of the proposals seen in the capital – and that was thanks to luxury fashion house Kenzo and its current Creative Director Nigo, who took inspiration from some of his most memorable train journeys and the landscapes seen from the window of his wagon, as well as some concepts from the Maison’s Fall/Winter 1998 Train show.
Palais Chaillot, the Eiffel Tower, and the hundreds of guests who attended the always eagerly awaited show were witnesses to this, as well as the elegant and refined Fall/Winter wardrobe devised by the Japanese. The two adjectives are closely linked and perfectly define the designer’s new work, equally as wearable, as it seems the firm has fortunately placed, not forgotten, its characteristic graphics in the form of flowers and so on, in the background, to give way to timelessness and rich materials, both represented in three-quarter mohair coats in grey and bubblegum pink; a mustard-coloured jacket in the same fabric, but in a more shaggy version, matching the flickering guardian of the night – France’s best-known monument -; and in the suits of blazers (with oversized lapels and cuffs) and trousers that were comfortable to watch them stroll down the catwalk to the sound of the American cellist and composer Erik Friedlander, who played a repertoire of oriental-inspired pieces.
Tomoaki Nagao took the occasion to pay homage to the slot machines of his childhood, known as pachinko, through graphics brought to life in elaborately textured knitwear; and to celebrate one of his most cherished friendships, the one he has with American artist Futura 2000. To seal it, they created imagery and iconography, marked by the fusion of their nicknames “2000” and “Nigo”, which means 2.5 in Japanese, equivalent to the year 2025.
Accessories such as bags, in different fun shapes and made of leather that simulates paper; shoes in the same material in Mary Janes or creepers style with rounded toes in different tones; or belts with eyelets in the shape of bokeh, complete the line.
Kenzo and Nigo are moving towards a more formal and minimalist style, and hopefully, they will continue in that direction.
Have a look at the Kenzo Fall/Winter 2025 collection below:
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