Julius Fall/Winter 2017
by Erin Floyd
Orwell’s 1984 finally comes to pass in Julius’ Neuromantika collection, riffing on themes of science fiction and duality in this season’s dystopian cyberpunk vision.
Dualism is nothing new to Julius founder Horikawa Tatsuro, who frequently cites destruction and creation as a source of inspiration. Julius shows frequently capitalise on opposition, be it the dualism of light and dark in wabi-sabi-inspired explorations, monochromatic contrast, or techno/punk, but the designer’s signature themes took on an added dimension for FW17. Christened ‘Neu Romantika,’ and named in homage to William Gibson’s pioneering 1984 sci-fi novel ‘Neuromancer,’ the label presented an apocalyptic augury of ‘the future as propellant, linking the present and future in real time.’ It was a collection strongly reminiscent of 1988 cult film Akira, and paired with a post-industrial location and a sinister ambient soundtrack from Lotic, Neuromantika’s despondent prophecy deftly meshed an alternative past with an imagined future.
Kicking off with an array of all-white ensembles, the label channelled the purifying obliteration of the atomic bomb, setting the stage for creations to come: sky-high structured collars adorned futuristic sportswear in white, paired with silver jeans featuring ripped, patched kneepads, and reconstructed denim jackets embraced deformation with displaced pockets and a tangle of auxiliary sleeves.
After the monochrome debut it was back to black, explosively punctuated by shades of red and orange. Drawing on both Akira’s colour palette and its eerie backdrop of Neo-Tokyo’s 2020 Olympics, themes of the 80’s underground dominated in silk bombers and activewear, hi-tops and sneakers, baggy cropped sweatshirts and leather biker jackets bursting with sleeves, splits and zips.
Blending hakama-style trousers with dangling straps and cargo pockets, past and future were again intertwined. Orwellian references sprung forth in the form of military-style pockets and patches on ribbed knitwear, and slogans such as ‘1984’ made a prominent appearance.
Albeit a gloomy depiction of an alternate present, the collection painted vivid creative possibilities. In a transitional period, Neu Romantika transforms the dissonance of disorder, and in the words of Horikawa, ‘a positive evolution has already begun.’
Les Benjamins Fall/Winter 2017
Milan Streetstyle… The Models!
Take a look at Who Decides War Spring/Summer 2026 backstage, captured by the lens of Spencer Stovell during New York Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
Nike and Air Afrique, a creative collective from Paris, have created a new shoe. It is called the Air Max RK61.
Salomon’s new Road Trip capsule looks both ways. It draws from the brand’s own history while making sure every detail is suited for the present.
MM6 Maison Margiela has partnered with Agnelle, a French glove maker with a history stretching back to 1937.
COMME des GARÇONS Homme Plus and Nike introduce a new collaborative sneaker, the Air Rejuven8.
For Spring/Summer 2026, Palomo returned to Madrid. The setting was The Palace Hotel, an intimate presentation that marked a homecoming after several seasons in New York.
Smith will lead the creation of four collections each year, covering men’s shoes, leather goods, and accessories.
Gucci introduces a new sneaker, the Gucci Shift, designed for motion. It translates the House’s athletic history into a form made for the rhythm of now.
Setchu Perfume is a collection of five fragrances, each continuing the brand’s search for balance, joy, and strength.
Deep in the hills of Abruzzo, at a place called Villaggio Cirulli, a simple but powerful idea took shape: no one is just a number.
Take a look at Campillo’s Spring/Summer 2026 backstage, captured by the lens of Spencer Stovell during New York Fashion Week, in exclusive for Fucking Young!
FANG NYC made its New York Fashion Week debut with a Spring/Summer 2026 collection that drew a clear line from the past to a specific future.
Valentino Garavani and Vans unveiled the campaign images for its new collaboration.
ECKHAUS LATTA unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection during New York Fashion Week.
Ami Paris has unveiled a new staple for the wardrobe: the Mirage sneaker.
Peter Demas photographed by Chris Fucile, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
In an age of digital noise, there’s something powerful about work made by hand. Artist Sal Salandra understands this.
LeBlancStudios presents its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Museum of Common Oddities.”
Drawing from the energy of Tokyo’s streetwear, the collection captures the creative pulse of Shibuya.
Dsquared2 and Ducati have joined forces for the first time. The reason is a machine: the new Ducati XDiavel V4 motorcycle.
A shoe should feel good from the first step. That’s the idea behind Camper’s new unisex sneaker, the Karst 2.
The offering is relaxed yet polished. It includes rugby shirts, lightweight shell jackets, and everyday T-shirts that speak to the brand’s modern-prep influences.
Photographed by Juergen Teller and styled by Jodie Barnes, the campaign features models Alex Consani and Leon Dame.
The message is an invitation. It’s a call to “cum” together, to join what they playfully term the “Carne Cummunity.”
SOLID HOMME applies its own clean, specific point of view to the iconic MA-1 flight jacket from Alpha Industries.
Balenciaga just unveiled a collection of ten fragrances. This launch moves beyond traditional perfumery, built instead on fusion and tension.
Dior has unveiled a new bag for the Winter 2025-2026 collection: the Dior Slider hobo.
A store should feel like it belongs. That’s the idea behind the newly reopened Camper flagship on Madrid’s Calle de Serrano.
Desigual introduced its new premium line, Desigual Studio, with a fashion show in Barcelona last night.
We caught up with Parcels in Paris to learn more about their new album.
