Henrik Vibskov Fall/Winter 2014
by Adriano Batista
Consistent with Henrik Vibskov’s approach to his collections, FW14’s “The Spaghetti Handjob” takes influences from a variety of complimentary and contradictory sources: the relationship between order and disorder, polar exploration, food preparation, patterns of cutting and folding.
The layering of fabrics within individual pieces plays a significant part in the collection, as each layer serves a different purpose; jackets have been deconstructed to show interior pockets from the outside, and organic, twisting cuts and patterns follow the contours of the body. Trousers are baggy, giving a new relaxed and exaggerated look to the classic suit, and a series of colourful hand crafted knits have been embroidered to create a 3D look using old-fashioned rug hooking techniques.
The models’ headwear is reminiscent of that worn by Russian military tank operators on their way to deepest Siberia, and the boots are fit for the harshest, coldest conditions. The faces of seals appear in several pieces, cropped and distorted, and neoprene layered sweatshirts and trousers would perfectly suit ice-diving expeditions.
Armani/Live for One Night Only Paris
Cedric Jacquemyn Fall/Winter 2014
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