Heliot Emil Fall/Winter 2023
by Anna Barr
Danish brothers Victor and Julius Juul showed their Heliot Emil Fall/Winter 2023 collection “Connected Forms” during Paris Fashion Week which quickly had everyone talking as they sent a “burning man” down the runway demonstrating form and function.
The collection marked their third show in Paris, and following last year’s ANDAM Award nomination, they have cemented themselves as permanent fixtures in the Paris fashion scape. The audience was a sea of black, the trademark color of choice for Heliot Emil, made up of stylists, editors, journalists, and buyers who were greeted on arrival by what would best be described as a headless robotic dog resembling something straight out of Black Mirrors.
British artist and sculptor Henry Moore inspired the collection which saw shapes take on abstract forms, with zippers and snaps allowing pieces to be removed or reattached, questioning traditional shapes and patterns. Provoking the material and textures, fabrics were manipulated with heat, water, and extensive tear. Asymmetrical details and exaggerated shapes were shaping up to define the silhouette for fall. Male models were fully anonymous with full-face balaclavas for a protective feel that borders with their “industrial elegance”. Heliot Emil is always refreshing as it doesn’t rely on nostalgia or the past, but is one of the few brands that look to the future even if sometimes it appears more dystopian.
Take a look at the collection below:
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