Gerrit Jacob Fall/Winter 2023
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
Welcome to the decadent universe of Gerrit Jacob. The Berlin designer had his Fall/Winter 23 collection under wraps, but he was patient and decided to let the chaos of the fashion weeks pass before unveiling it. The wait was worth it, as the collection, presented in lookbook format, was a spectacle to behold.
The presentation, centered on divergent combinations of youthful optimism and mature degeneracy, channels queer aggressiveness and deepens the visual, material, and conceptual codes presented in Jacob’s previous lines. Bright, bubblegum color palettes applied to various fabrics and distinct silhouettes become signifiers of the persistent duality of G.J.’s work.
“SCUM” is the name given to this proposal, which is an embodiment of a youth-centered mantra that oscillates between naïve exploration and jaded perception. Every creator and genius tends to isolate himself in his world, and in Gerrit’s case, as the genius that he is, it was to be no different. It is here that the Berliner begins to create and give free rein to his imagination, offering us as a result contrasts between garish imagery and luxurious traditional craftsmanship, and to navigate identity, queer aggressiveness, and the insistent idiosyncrasy that is sought after and which in turn become the central themes of his fw23, thus channeling the frustrations of 21st-century existence.
The passage of time is something that has inspired Jacob, who spent time working in the gift shop of the Royal Academy in London and has mastered the concept of “Fine Art Merchandise” to perfection. The idea that art should be accessible and proprietary is a cornerstone of Gerrit Jacob’s range of esoteric prints and unique garments.
From the coming together of all these elements, an evolving dialogue has emerged between the designer’s growing community and his ambitious vision for the brand. As such, this collection represents a coming-of-age moment for both, cementing Gerrit Jacob’s fiercely stylish place in the global fashion industry.
Check out the collection below:
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One take
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