GCDS Fall/Winter 2024
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
“Toys for adults” is the name of the latest work presented by Giuliano Calza, founder and creative director of GCDS, during Milan Fashion Week. Probably, when reading the title given to the collection, the imagination may lead you in one direction, which in this case is wrong, as far from seeing on the catwalk daring or more fun/sexually oriented designs, the opposite was seen.
Giuliano is in the midst of developing a new chapter of the brand, in terms of design. Gone are the days of extravagant and sometimes impossible-to-wear creations and the company is continuing with the sober and elegant clothes it began to introduce last season.
The colour palette chosen for GCDS Fall/Winter 2024 has been reduced to four shades, three of which are incombustible white, grey, and black. The fourth is what some consider to be the colour of the season, burgundy. This was used to add a pop to some of the garments or to dye them in their entirety, as well as being chosen for the set’s props.
Large burgundy latex curtains were the preamble that what was to come through them was going to be something quite positive to cherish. The men’s looks started 100% white and exuded purity and sensitivity as the models moved with innocent attitude down the catwalk. The trousers of one of them stood out because of the white 3D flowers superimposed on them.
White evolved into grey and gave way to a couple of suits in different fabrics and prints, ideal to be worn for a special occasion. One of them was especially praised for the flower print it was made with. As a curiosity and fun fact, if you examine the print in-depth, it features little camouflaged Hello Kitty faces; something very Calza.
Kitty and flowers fascinate the Italian and maybe he couldn’t decide which one to choose, although it is obvious that in recent times the flowers have taken on a special meaning, since they appear in XL format and are placed on the lapels of the suits, ready to be seen. They are available in black and the burgundy mentioned above. Elegant but not at all boring, like the pieces in that shade, which make it clear how versatile it can be, given that it is used in transparent knitwear, velvet, leather, and wool, among others. Anyone dressed in this colour would look great, including Dracula himself.
Leather closed Giuliano’s new offer, showing that he knows how to manage it. He prefers it with a worn look, and so it has been. With all of this mentioned, the designer has once again proved that he’s valid for any register.
Check out the GCDS Fall/Winter 2024 collection below:
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