Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2023
by Gabriel Córdoba Acosta
Salvatore Ferragamo is now FERRAGAMO. The Italian fashion house’s show was one of the most eagerly awaited of the latest edition of Milan fashion week, and rightly so, as it was to mark the debut of its new creative director, Maximilian Davis.
The palace of the former Archbishop’s Seminary in Milan, all decorated in red, already announced that a new era of the brand was about to begin and that Ferragamo’s phoenix-like rebirth was only a matter of time: “I wanted to pay homage to the beginnings of Salvatore by bringing in the culture of Hollywood, but of the new Hollywood,” explains Davis. “His ease and his sensuality; his twilight and his dawn.”
Maximilian researches the house’s archives, reimagines them, and mixes contemporary clarity with the purity of Florentine drapery as only he knows how and as we are accustomed to with his proposals and previous works, resulting in truly elegant things. Elegance is one of the features that has characterized the Spring/Summer 23 collection and is materialized through transparent fabrics, liquid silk, and layers of organza, but appears cemented by suede sandals drawn from Renaissance reality, and the tangible charm of polished accessories.
The languid, beachy glamour of the new Hollywood is subverted with flashes of fetishism: shiny leathers, second-skin fits, and micro shorts. Everyday essentials – tank tops, polo necks – seem almost perverse in their simplicity. Lightweight knitwear is knitted wide to reveal the skin underneath, or so thin as to appear translucent. Even evening wear is imbued with nonchalance.
Tailoring twists the classically masculine tropes of eighties executives into a modern wardrobe: perfectly proportioned, louche refinement formed by fabrics often reserved for womenswear. The dinner jacket is imbued with a new energy: shirts cut from silk organza and cotton poplin; collars and sleeves are eliminated. The Wanda bag, first introduced in 1988 and named after Salvatore’s wife, is reinterpreted in sleek new proportions, while a prismatic shoulder bag brings a sense of minimalist modernity.
A palette is drawn from the colors of Rachel Harrison’s Sunset series, gradient prints, and hand-dyed fabrics; from optical white to deep indigo, butter-soft yellow, and sky blue. A new Pantone red formally encodes the brand’s iconic hue, visible dominantly throughout the collection and in the runway space, coloring the sand that covers the floor. “The sand relates to Ferragamo, to Hollywood, to the ocean, but also to me and my own DNA,” Davis explains. “To what the sea means to Caribbean culture: a place where you can reflect and feel at ease. I wanted to show that perspective, but now through the lens of Ferragamo.”
Take a look at the collection below:
Let’s Have Another
BOTTEGA VENETA Spring/Summer 2023
Berlin’s KitKat Club became the perfect runway for #DAMUR’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Get Wet.”
COLRS unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection “JUMPING FENCES” during Berlin Fashion Week, bottling the reckless energy of a Brazilian summer.
On July 1st at Berlin’s old Tempelhof Airport, BALLETSHOFER staged a runway show that challenged how we dress for travel.
At Berlin Fashion Week, Andrej Gronau presented its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Alpine Fiction.
At Berlin Fashion Week, Orange Culture unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “In the Shadows.”
Berlin Fashion Week served as the stage for SF1OG’s SS26 collection, a deeply personal examination of love’s darker edges, obsession, fragility, and emotional unraveling.
Lenny aka Futura 2000, took the time to speak with us ahead of the exclusive launch.
This summer, Ludovic de Saint Sernin revisits Fire Island to relaunch its swim line with a campaign steeped in erotic freedom and community reverence.
Chitose Abe remains one of the most avant-garde voices of her generation, capable of injecting freshness, desire, and direction into a fashion that needs it more than ever.
K-Way’s new men’s summer collection focuses on keeping things cool, comfortable, and practical.
PUMA and JJJJound have done it again. Their latest collaboration takes the spiked silhouette of the 1999 PUMA Mostro and strips it down to its essentials.
This Pride month, The Barcelona EDITION isn’t just waving a flag—it’s becoming one. From graphic art explosions to drag royalty brunches, the hotel pulses with a raw, vivid celebration of queer creativity, inclusion, and unfiltered joy.
At Galerie Sultana, Gardouch presented its second collection, Playing Pretend, not as mere clothing but as objects that hold fragments of memory.
Zico steps into the brand’s world as part of its ongoing mission to connect with cultural leaders across fashion, music, and art.
The “White” Pack reimagines Skepta’s signature Skope Forever sneaker in an arctic palette.
The question hangs heavy in the air: How do we keep making clothes when the world burns?
Haderlump’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection breathes new life into Ex Libris, translating these historical markers into wearable narratives.
Francesco Risso joined forces with artists Olaolu Slawn and Soldier Boyfriend for something raw, immediate, and deeply personal.
For Spring/Summer 2026, David Koma presented I LOVE DAVID at Berlin Fashion Week, a menswear collection that balances humor with depth.
SLⱯY, unveiled during Berlin Fashion Week, takes the ancient tale of Saint George and the Dragon and flips it into a meditation on modern battles.
Change isn’t always about moving forward, but sometimes, it’s about holding on. For their Spring/Summer 2026 collection, Milieuschutz, Richert Beil explores exactly that tension.
Inspired by the hidden love stories of novels like Maurice, Swimming in the Dark, and Young Mungo, the collection moves through three emotional stages of queer coming-of-age: concealment, self-acceptance, and the bittersweet weight of memory.
Through its new CGI campaign, “Beyond Real, Beyond Now,” and a community-driven approach, REVERSIBLE is bridging the gap between inspiration and accessibility.
Eugenio Elverdin photographed by Lucas Ricci and styled by Gaston Olmos, in exclusive for Fucking Young! Online.
There’s a particular kind of freedom that comes with movement, and AMBUSH’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Tribe on the Move,” captures that feeling.
Louis Vuitton’s latest travel campaign takes viewers on a visual journey through China, reimagining travel as an experience rather than just a destination.
Paris Fashion Week witnessed Steven Passaro’s Moonlit Lover Spring/Summer 2026 collection, an exemplar of the aftermath of love encountered after midnight and gone before sunrise.
Because home should never be denied to anyone. In a world where home shouldn’t be a privilege but a right, artist and activist Charlie Smits is stepping up. Smits has teamed up with Fundación… »
Simon Porte Jacquemus has fulfilled his dream, and in the process, he continues to invite us to dream with him.
We checked in with Takuya Morikawa to talk process, evolution, and the foundation in the essence of creation.
